Taking care of your lawn during the fall is as important as it is during spring and summer, even more so for lawns with cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. Nearly all fertilizers and broadleaf herbicides should be applied in the fall and it is by far the best time to renovate and reseed lawns.
Fertilizing your lawn in the fall will help it grow stronger, thicker and greener. Cool-season grasses should be fertilized with nitrogen in late September and again in four to six weeks. Use either farm fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate or urea, or use specialty fertilizers found in garden centers. The normal rate is 1 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, however it is always best to soil sample and know the exact recommendations for your home lawn. Remember to spread it evenly over your lawn.
If broadleaf weeds such as clover, dandelion, plantain and chickweed are growing in your lawn, fall is the best time of year to get them under control. Almost all broadleaf weeds can be controlled selectively in turfgrass by applying 2, 4-D and/or Dicamba. These are sold in many garden centers under a variety of trade names. For the best results, apply the herbicide on any relatively warm day in late September and/or October. Reminder- crabgrass does not fall into this category.
Summer’s stresses often take a toll on your lawn. The best time to reseed your lawn is in September. Because the goal is to get the seed in close contact with the soil, it is recommended that you first remove surface debris and mechanically groove the soil. This is easier done by traversing the lawn with a dethatching machine that can be rented at many rental centers. Seed a turf-type tall fescue at a rate of 5 to 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet. To avoid uneven application, spread half the seed horizontally across the lawn and the other half vertically. The best and quickest results are obtained if the seeded areas can be kept moist until the seeds germinate.
Remember to continue mowing your lawn as long as the grass is growing. You might want to lower the height in the fall to 2 inches. This tends to keep the grass greener longer in the winter and will help the lawn to green up earlier the next spring. It might even help increase turf density.
For more information on lawn care and renovating your home lawn, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, September 14, 2016
Wednesday, September 7, 2016
Harvest Safety
The combines are finally firing up and rolling through corn fields throughout the county. One of the most taxing periods for Kentucky farmers and their families is the fall harvest season. This is a peak season for agricultural injuries and an especially important time for farm families to remember safety. It is also a time for other drivers to be aware of the increasing number of implements sharing the roadways with them.
Long working hours can lead to fatigue and stress, making you less alert to potential safety hazards. Take some breaks when operating equipment for an extended period of time. If possible, trade off with other workers for a change of pace.
All workers should be trained and physically capable of operating equipment and understand the safety procedures for it. Take time to talk to workers about safety.
Dress appropriately for the job. Avoid loose clothing, jackets with dangling strings, and sweatshirts that could become entangled in moving equipment.
Entanglement in moving parts, especially Power Take-Offs or other chain and belt drives, is a major fall harvest hazard. Inspect machinery and equipment to be sure shields and guards on moving parts are in place and in good repair. Replace ineffective or missing safety equipment. Before getting off field equipment, turn off the engine and wait for moving parts to completely stop.
It is a good idea to take the ignition key with you so another person does not unexpectedly start equipment while you are performing maintenance or repair. If you are working under any piece of equipment, such as a header unit, always use the jack stand or hydraulic cylinder locks to prevent it from suddenly falling and pinning you under. Be sure all safety locks are operational.
A pinhole-size hydraulic leak can cause severe tissue damage. If you are injected with oil from a hydraulic leak, immediately seek medical assistance. The oil must be surgically removed, and delays can result in serious infections and possible amputations. Always use paper or cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks.
Tractor overturns and run-overs are leading causes of farm deaths. Being thrown off a tractor and run over is the second leading cause of tractor deaths in Kentucky. Equip older model tractors with a rollover protective structure (ROPS). Most tractors built after the late 1960s or early 1970s can be equipped with a ROPS for $600 to $1,200.
Make it a habit to use the seat belt to ensure you remain inside the zone of protection provided by the ROPS or safety cab. The seat belt also will keep you from being thrown off the tractor if you hit an obstacle.
Run-over injuries to extra riders, especially those involving children, who fall off are very tragic. Never allow any extra riders on tractors or equipment.
Keep bystanders away from operating equipment. Also, be aware of people who may have come into the area. Check around equipment before starting or moving it.
Carry a fire extinguisher on all tractors and self-propelled equipment, chiefly combines. Frequently check extinguishers to ensure they are pressurized and in good condition. To prevent fires on combines, be sure equipment is clean and hoses and fuel systems are in good shape and not leaking. Remove debris around engine components.
Check for clearances with overhead power lines when operating or moving tall machines, because contact may result in electrocution. Moving portable augers around overhead power lines is especially hazardous so always lower them first.
Keep slow-moving-vehicle emblems and extremity markings clean and bright to help motorists notice equipment. Replace faded emblems and check headlights, taillights and flashing lights for satisfactory operation.
To alert oncoming drivers, use yellow reflectors or yellow retroreflective tape on the edges of towed equipment especially if they extend beyond the left side of a tractor. If a tractor has mirrors, keep them clean and adjusted for the driver to watch for approaching motorists. When possible, pull completely off the road to let a line of traffic behind pass.
At the same time, non-farm drivers need to be aware of the increasing number of farm vehicles and equipment on the road. It is not a bad idea to leave for your destination a few minutes early just in case you encounter farm equipment. Please do not get in a hurry and try to pass this equipment when it is not safe. People’s lives (your’s, your passengers’, the farmer’s and bystanders) are at risk. Also keep in mind that farm equipment cannot stop on a dime. Please do not pass the equipment then come to an abrupt stop directly in front of them.
Proper equipment management along with using safety precautions around the farm, farm equipment and on the road will lead to a safer fall harvest season for everyone.
For more information on farm safety, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Long working hours can lead to fatigue and stress, making you less alert to potential safety hazards. Take some breaks when operating equipment for an extended period of time. If possible, trade off with other workers for a change of pace.
All workers should be trained and physically capable of operating equipment and understand the safety procedures for it. Take time to talk to workers about safety.
Dress appropriately for the job. Avoid loose clothing, jackets with dangling strings, and sweatshirts that could become entangled in moving equipment.
Entanglement in moving parts, especially Power Take-Offs or other chain and belt drives, is a major fall harvest hazard. Inspect machinery and equipment to be sure shields and guards on moving parts are in place and in good repair. Replace ineffective or missing safety equipment. Before getting off field equipment, turn off the engine and wait for moving parts to completely stop.
It is a good idea to take the ignition key with you so another person does not unexpectedly start equipment while you are performing maintenance or repair. If you are working under any piece of equipment, such as a header unit, always use the jack stand or hydraulic cylinder locks to prevent it from suddenly falling and pinning you under. Be sure all safety locks are operational.
A pinhole-size hydraulic leak can cause severe tissue damage. If you are injected with oil from a hydraulic leak, immediately seek medical assistance. The oil must be surgically removed, and delays can result in serious infections and possible amputations. Always use paper or cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks.
Tractor overturns and run-overs are leading causes of farm deaths. Being thrown off a tractor and run over is the second leading cause of tractor deaths in Kentucky. Equip older model tractors with a rollover protective structure (ROPS). Most tractors built after the late 1960s or early 1970s can be equipped with a ROPS for $600 to $1,200.
Make it a habit to use the seat belt to ensure you remain inside the zone of protection provided by the ROPS or safety cab. The seat belt also will keep you from being thrown off the tractor if you hit an obstacle.
Run-over injuries to extra riders, especially those involving children, who fall off are very tragic. Never allow any extra riders on tractors or equipment.
Keep bystanders away from operating equipment. Also, be aware of people who may have come into the area. Check around equipment before starting or moving it.
Carry a fire extinguisher on all tractors and self-propelled equipment, chiefly combines. Frequently check extinguishers to ensure they are pressurized and in good condition. To prevent fires on combines, be sure equipment is clean and hoses and fuel systems are in good shape and not leaking. Remove debris around engine components.
Check for clearances with overhead power lines when operating or moving tall machines, because contact may result in electrocution. Moving portable augers around overhead power lines is especially hazardous so always lower them first.
Keep slow-moving-vehicle emblems and extremity markings clean and bright to help motorists notice equipment. Replace faded emblems and check headlights, taillights and flashing lights for satisfactory operation.
To alert oncoming drivers, use yellow reflectors or yellow retroreflective tape on the edges of towed equipment especially if they extend beyond the left side of a tractor. If a tractor has mirrors, keep them clean and adjusted for the driver to watch for approaching motorists. When possible, pull completely off the road to let a line of traffic behind pass.
At the same time, non-farm drivers need to be aware of the increasing number of farm vehicles and equipment on the road. It is not a bad idea to leave for your destination a few minutes early just in case you encounter farm equipment. Please do not get in a hurry and try to pass this equipment when it is not safe. People’s lives (your’s, your passengers’, the farmer’s and bystanders) are at risk. Also keep in mind that farm equipment cannot stop on a dime. Please do not pass the equipment then come to an abrupt stop directly in front of them.
Proper equipment management along with using safety precautions around the farm, farm equipment and on the road will lead to a safer fall harvest season for everyone.
For more information on farm safety, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
Bug Proofing Your House for The Fall
Even though we are currently fighting away mosquitos, it time to start thinking about bug proofing your home for the fall. It won’t be long until you may have noticed your home being invaded by an assortment of fall pests, including Asian lady beetles, boxelder bugs, crickets, spiders and black soldier beetle larvae. These creatures typically visit homes that provide easy entry during the fall, often seeking refuge from changing weather.
Pest proofing your home is the most efficient way to keep these critters out. Even though a swatter, broom or vacuum cleaner and trash container will take care of pests that occasionally wander indoors, it’s best to deal with boxelder bugs and lady beetles outside, before they enter your home.
UK Extension Entomologist Dr. Lee Townsend, suggests following these guidelines to help pest proof your home or place of business and some may even help you conserve energy and increase the comfort level this fall and winter:
Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors, paying particular attention to the bottom corners that are a common entry location. Insects and spiders can enter through a gap of one-sixteenth of an inch or less. Get down on the floor and check for light entering under doors; this indicates possible pest entryways.
To close other potential pest entries, apply caulk on the bottom outside edges and sides of door thresholds; fit garage doors with a rubber bottom seal because vinyl doesn’t seal well in the winter; and line the bottom track of sliding glass doors with foam weather stripping ½ to ¾ inch wide to seal any gaps.
Utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding are common entry points for spiders, ants, yellow jackets and rodents. You can use caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool and copper mesh to plug openings around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone or cable television wires.
Apply a good-quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk to cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards and other openings. Before you apply the caulk, clean existing caulk, and remove any that’s peeling to aid adhesion. Be sure to use a good caulking gun. Desirable features are a back-off trigger to stop caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to remove the tip from new caulking tubes, and a nail to puncture the seal within. These guns are available for less than $10.
To reduce the entry of lady beetles, cluster flies and other overwintering pests, repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Keep windows closed when adults are emerging to prevent entry. Repairing screens also will keep out flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges next summer.
Another way to prevent pest entry is to apply an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. To gain the most from this effort, apply long-lasting liquid formulations that contain synthetic pyrethroids. These products are available at most hardware, lawn and garden shops.
If you apply the barrier treatment, use a compressed air or hose-end sprayer to treat the base of all exterior doors, garage, crawl space entrances, foundation vents, utility openings and beneath siding. It’s also useful to treat the outside perimeter of the foundation with a two- to six-foot wide band along the ground and two to three feet up the foundation wall.
If you prefer not to tackle these pest-proofing activities, contact a professional pest control firm to help you out.
For more information, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. The University of Kentucky is an equal opportunity university. Questions concerning compliance with regulations may be directed to the Institutional Equity & Equal Opportunity Office, 13 Main Building, University of Kentucky, Lexington, KY 40506-0032, (859) 257-8927 or at http://www.uky.edu/evpfa/eeo.
Upcoming Ag Events:
Aug 26th 8am Private Pesticide Applicator Certification
Aug 30th Rinse & Return at CPS in Sacramento
Sept 22nd Beef Bash at Princeton Research Station
Pest proofing your home is the most efficient way to keep these critters out. Even though a swatter, broom or vacuum cleaner and trash container will take care of pests that occasionally wander indoors, it’s best to deal with boxelder bugs and lady beetles outside, before they enter your home.
UK Extension Entomologist Dr. Lee Townsend, suggests following these guidelines to help pest proof your home or place of business and some may even help you conserve energy and increase the comfort level this fall and winter:
Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors, paying particular attention to the bottom corners that are a common entry location. Insects and spiders can enter through a gap of one-sixteenth of an inch or less. Get down on the floor and check for light entering under doors; this indicates possible pest entryways.
To close other potential pest entries, apply caulk on the bottom outside edges and sides of door thresholds; fit garage doors with a rubber bottom seal because vinyl doesn’t seal well in the winter; and line the bottom track of sliding glass doors with foam weather stripping ½ to ¾ inch wide to seal any gaps.
Utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding are common entry points for spiders, ants, yellow jackets and rodents. You can use caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool and copper mesh to plug openings around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone or cable television wires.
Apply a good-quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk to cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards and other openings. Before you apply the caulk, clean existing caulk, and remove any that’s peeling to aid adhesion. Be sure to use a good caulking gun. Desirable features are a back-off trigger to stop caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to remove the tip from new caulking tubes, and a nail to puncture the seal within. These guns are available for less than $10.
To reduce the entry of lady beetles, cluster flies and other overwintering pests, repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Keep windows closed when adults are emerging to prevent entry. Repairing screens also will keep out flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges next summer.
Another way to prevent pest entry is to apply an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. To gain the most from this effort, apply long-lasting liquid formulations that contain synthetic pyrethroids. These products are available at most hardware, lawn and garden shops.
If you apply the barrier treatment, use a compressed air or hose-end sprayer to treat the base of all exterior doors, garage, crawl space entrances, foundation vents, utility openings and beneath siding. It’s also useful to treat the outside perimeter of the foundation with a two- to six-foot wide band along the ground and two to three feet up the foundation wall.
If you prefer not to tackle these pest-proofing activities, contact a professional pest control firm to help you out.
For more information, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. The University of Kentucky is an equal opportunity university. Questions concerning compliance with regulations may be directed to the Institutional Equity & Equal Opportunity Office, 13 Main Building, University of Kentucky, Lexington, KY 40506-0032, (859) 257-8927 or at http://www.uky.edu/evpfa/eeo.
Upcoming Ag Events:
Aug 26th 8am Private Pesticide Applicator Certification
Aug 30th Rinse & Return at CPS in Sacramento
Sept 22nd Beef Bash at Princeton Research Station
Wednesday, August 17, 2016
Preventing Hay Fires on Your Farm
You can prevent hay bale or barn fires if you bale hay at appropriate moisture levels and monitor the temperature of recently baled hay. However, this summer we have had to fight with moisture levels more than we usually do. Everyone is working tirelessly between rains to cut and bale hay, top tobacco and spray crops. So there is probably a lot of hay that has been put up with slightly higher moisture content that usual.
According to UK Hay Specialist, Tom Keene, hay generally will begin a heating phase within one to two days after baling. During this time, you should monitor hay to make sure it does not reach temperatures that can damage the hay or lead to spontaneous combustion.
It is not unusual for the temperature within a bale of hay to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and may go as high as 130 degrees before beginning to decline. If the temperature peaks below 130 degrees, there may be some loss of quality but no danger of fire. With free air circulation around a bale, both heat and moisture can easily dissipate. A single bale rarely heats enough to catch on fire, but when they are placed close together or stacked with other bales that are also heating, it is much more difficult for the heat to leave the bales. A good practice is to leave bales scattered in the barn or in the field for 3 to 4 weeks before placing them in a stack.
If the bales are wetter than they should be, the temperatures can easily rise above 130 degrees. At 140 to 150 degrees more microbial growth and chemical reactions within the hay cause it to generate heat at an increasingly rapid rate.
If hay temperatures reach 150 degrees, you will need to move bales to allow for better air circulation and you should check the temperature at least two to three times per day. At 180 degrees fire is imminent, and at 200 degrees it is likely to be present. In either case, the fire department should be notified. It is best to wait for them to arrive before removing the hay from the stack in case of a flame up.
Smoke from hay that has been treated with an acid preservative may contain toxic fumes, so keep people away from the smoke and inform the firefighters of the treatment that was applied.
To check the temperature of hay, you can use several types of thermometers. Find one that is durable and easy to use and will measure up to 200 degrees.
One way to use a simple glass thermometer is by attaching a string or thin wire and lowering or pushing it into a probe that has been inserted into the center area of the hay stack. Do not insert them directly into the hay because they break very easily. It is best to use only spirit-filled glass thermometers. That prevents any risk of accidentally contaminating hay with mercury from a broken thermometer.
You can also use electronic thermometers with remote sensors and a digital readout. Avoid LED displays because they are often hard to read in bright light. An LCD is a better choice. If you are also moisture testing your hay, some of the electronic moisture meters also measure temperature.
Long stem thermometers, commonly called compost thermometers, are probably the most rugged and reliable when measuring temperatures in one bale at a time. With these types, the price increases with the dial size and length of the stem. It may be tempting to stick these directly into a hay bale, but the stem can easily bend and destroy the accuracy or operation of the thermometer.
It is best and necessary in most cases to use some kind of hay probe. You can easily make one yourself using steel pipe or electrical conduit. You can also purchase commercial probes or borrow one from the Extension Office.
When you are using a thermometer, measure the wettest hay first. Probe square bales from the side and round bales from the end. You should insert the probe near the center of the bale. In round bales, if the core is loosely formed, probe six to 12 inches away from the center where the hay will be more tightly packed.
In large stacks, it may be difficult to reach the center, but it is important to get at least five to 10 feet down from the top or in from the side. The most critical factor is to reach where the wettest hay is stored. It is best to probe at several locations and at different depths within a stack to locate the warmest spot.
When checking hay for moisture and temperature, always err on the side of caution. If temperatures are in an upward mode, monitor hay until it becomes stabilized under 130 degrees Fahrenheit or until the interior of the bale or the hay stack reaches ambient temperature.
Also, keep in mind that testing your hay for quality is always important and should be done before feeding it to livestock.
For more information on temperature checking and other aspects of hay production contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
According to UK Hay Specialist, Tom Keene, hay generally will begin a heating phase within one to two days after baling. During this time, you should monitor hay to make sure it does not reach temperatures that can damage the hay or lead to spontaneous combustion.
It is not unusual for the temperature within a bale of hay to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and may go as high as 130 degrees before beginning to decline. If the temperature peaks below 130 degrees, there may be some loss of quality but no danger of fire. With free air circulation around a bale, both heat and moisture can easily dissipate. A single bale rarely heats enough to catch on fire, but when they are placed close together or stacked with other bales that are also heating, it is much more difficult for the heat to leave the bales. A good practice is to leave bales scattered in the barn or in the field for 3 to 4 weeks before placing them in a stack.
If the bales are wetter than they should be, the temperatures can easily rise above 130 degrees. At 140 to 150 degrees more microbial growth and chemical reactions within the hay cause it to generate heat at an increasingly rapid rate.
If hay temperatures reach 150 degrees, you will need to move bales to allow for better air circulation and you should check the temperature at least two to three times per day. At 180 degrees fire is imminent, and at 200 degrees it is likely to be present. In either case, the fire department should be notified. It is best to wait for them to arrive before removing the hay from the stack in case of a flame up.
Smoke from hay that has been treated with an acid preservative may contain toxic fumes, so keep people away from the smoke and inform the firefighters of the treatment that was applied.
To check the temperature of hay, you can use several types of thermometers. Find one that is durable and easy to use and will measure up to 200 degrees.
One way to use a simple glass thermometer is by attaching a string or thin wire and lowering or pushing it into a probe that has been inserted into the center area of the hay stack. Do not insert them directly into the hay because they break very easily. It is best to use only spirit-filled glass thermometers. That prevents any risk of accidentally contaminating hay with mercury from a broken thermometer.
You can also use electronic thermometers with remote sensors and a digital readout. Avoid LED displays because they are often hard to read in bright light. An LCD is a better choice. If you are also moisture testing your hay, some of the electronic moisture meters also measure temperature.
Long stem thermometers, commonly called compost thermometers, are probably the most rugged and reliable when measuring temperatures in one bale at a time. With these types, the price increases with the dial size and length of the stem. It may be tempting to stick these directly into a hay bale, but the stem can easily bend and destroy the accuracy or operation of the thermometer.
It is best and necessary in most cases to use some kind of hay probe. You can easily make one yourself using steel pipe or electrical conduit. You can also purchase commercial probes or borrow one from the Extension Office.
When you are using a thermometer, measure the wettest hay first. Probe square bales from the side and round bales from the end. You should insert the probe near the center of the bale. In round bales, if the core is loosely formed, probe six to 12 inches away from the center where the hay will be more tightly packed.
In large stacks, it may be difficult to reach the center, but it is important to get at least five to 10 feet down from the top or in from the side. The most critical factor is to reach where the wettest hay is stored. It is best to probe at several locations and at different depths within a stack to locate the warmest spot.
When checking hay for moisture and temperature, always err on the side of caution. If temperatures are in an upward mode, monitor hay until it becomes stabilized under 130 degrees Fahrenheit or until the interior of the bale or the hay stack reaches ambient temperature.
Also, keep in mind that testing your hay for quality is always important and should be done before feeding it to livestock.
For more information on temperature checking and other aspects of hay production contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Monday, August 8, 2016
Time to Plant Your Fall Garden
With all of the rain that we have received over the past couple of months, many people did not have much of a summer garden. If you fall into that category with me, then you are hoping for much better luck with your fall garden. And if you have not done so already, you need to be finishing up planting your fall garden by the end of this month.
Early August would be the time to make a last planting of bush beans, carrots, kale, collards, bibb lettuce, turnips and cole crops such as kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Late August plantings can include mustard greens, spinach greens, radishes, turnip greens and leaf lettuce.
Before planting, remove any existing debris including crops and weeds to the compost bin and cultivate the soil.
If the previous crop was well fertilized and grew vigorously you may need to add little if any additional fertilizer, otherwise apply about 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 per 100 square feet of planting area.
Remember to keep fall gardens well watered as this tends to be a fairly dry time in Kentucky during an “average” year. A weekly irrigation sufficient to wet the soil to 6 or 8 inches should be adequate. This is more or less equivalent to a weekly one-inch rain.
To learn more about fall gardening options, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Early August would be the time to make a last planting of bush beans, carrots, kale, collards, bibb lettuce, turnips and cole crops such as kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Late August plantings can include mustard greens, spinach greens, radishes, turnip greens and leaf lettuce.
Before planting, remove any existing debris including crops and weeds to the compost bin and cultivate the soil.
If the previous crop was well fertilized and grew vigorously you may need to add little if any additional fertilizer, otherwise apply about 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 per 100 square feet of planting area.
Remember to keep fall gardens well watered as this tends to be a fairly dry time in Kentucky during an “average” year. A weekly irrigation sufficient to wet the soil to 6 or 8 inches should be adequate. This is more or less equivalent to a weekly one-inch rain.
To learn more about fall gardening options, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Forage Quality Key Component to Success in Livestock Production
Forage quality often receives far less attention that it deserves. It is defined in various ways but is often difficult to understand. Forage Quality represents a simple concept, yet encompasses much complexity.
Good forage quality is essential for high rates of gain, ample milk production, efficient reproduction, and adequate profits. However, forage quality varies greatly among and within forage crops, and nutritional needs vary among and within animal species and classes. Producing suitable quality forage for a given situation requires knowing the factors that affect forage quality, then exercising management accordingly.
According to a UK Extension publication Understanding Forage Quality, factors that influence forage quality include the following:
Palatability Will the animals eat the forage? Animals select one forage over another based on smell, feel, and taste. Palatability may therefore be influenced by texture, leafiness, fertilization, dung or urine patches, moisture content, pest infestation, or compounds that cause a forage to taste sweet, sour, or salty. High-quality forages are generally highly palatable.
Intake How much will they eat? Animals must consume adequate quantities of forage to perform well. Typically, the higher the palatability and forage quality, the higher the intake.
Digestibility How much of the forage will be digested? Digestibility (the extent to which forage is absorbed as it passes through an animal’s digestive tract) varies greatly. Immature, leafy plant tissues may be 80 to 90% digested, while less than 50% of mature, stemmy material is digested.
Nutrient content Once digested, will the forage provide an adequate level of nutrients? Living forage plants usually contain 70 to 90% water. To standardize analyses, forage yield and nutrient content are usually expressed on a dry matter (DM) basis. Forage dry matter can be divided into two main categories: (1) cell contents (the non-structural parts of the plant tissue such as protein, sugar, and starch); and (2) structural components of the cell wall (cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin).
Anti-quality factors Various compounds may be present in forage that can lower animal performance, cause sickness, or even result in death. Such compounds include tannins, nitrates, alkaloids, cyanoglycosides, estrogens, and mycotoxins. The presence and/or severity of these elements depend on the plant species present (including weeds), time of year, environmental conditions, and animal sensitivity. High-quality forages must not contain harmful levels of anti-quality components.
Animal performance is the ultimate test of forage quality, especially when forages are fed alone and free choice. Forage quality encompasses “nutritive value” (the potential for supplying nutrients, i.e., digestibility and nutrient content), how much animals will consume, and any anti-quality factors present. Animal performance can be influenced by any of several factors associated with either the plants or the animals. Failure to give proper consideration to any of these factors may reduce an animal’s performance level, which in turn reduces potential income.
Analyzing forages for nutrient content can be used to determine whether quality is adequate and to guide proper ration supplementation. In order to better assist producers with quality, we are holding a hay testing day at the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office on Wednesday, August 10th. The Kentucky Department of Agriculture will be here to test hay samples during office hours free of charge. This is a great opportunity to have your hay samples tested and know the nutrient value of it.
Also, on August 9th there will be a Beef Field Day at Cody Robertson’s Farm beginning at 9am and concluding with lunch. Topics that will be covered include reproductive management, cattle handling, cattle facilities and updates on medication and application equipment.
For more information on forage quality or about the upcoming Beef Field Day, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Upcoming Ag Programs
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
Good forage quality is essential for high rates of gain, ample milk production, efficient reproduction, and adequate profits. However, forage quality varies greatly among and within forage crops, and nutritional needs vary among and within animal species and classes. Producing suitable quality forage for a given situation requires knowing the factors that affect forage quality, then exercising management accordingly.
According to a UK Extension publication Understanding Forage Quality, factors that influence forage quality include the following:
Palatability Will the animals eat the forage? Animals select one forage over another based on smell, feel, and taste. Palatability may therefore be influenced by texture, leafiness, fertilization, dung or urine patches, moisture content, pest infestation, or compounds that cause a forage to taste sweet, sour, or salty. High-quality forages are generally highly palatable.
Intake How much will they eat? Animals must consume adequate quantities of forage to perform well. Typically, the higher the palatability and forage quality, the higher the intake.
Digestibility How much of the forage will be digested? Digestibility (the extent to which forage is absorbed as it passes through an animal’s digestive tract) varies greatly. Immature, leafy plant tissues may be 80 to 90% digested, while less than 50% of mature, stemmy material is digested.
Nutrient content Once digested, will the forage provide an adequate level of nutrients? Living forage plants usually contain 70 to 90% water. To standardize analyses, forage yield and nutrient content are usually expressed on a dry matter (DM) basis. Forage dry matter can be divided into two main categories: (1) cell contents (the non-structural parts of the plant tissue such as protein, sugar, and starch); and (2) structural components of the cell wall (cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin).
Anti-quality factors Various compounds may be present in forage that can lower animal performance, cause sickness, or even result in death. Such compounds include tannins, nitrates, alkaloids, cyanoglycosides, estrogens, and mycotoxins. The presence and/or severity of these elements depend on the plant species present (including weeds), time of year, environmental conditions, and animal sensitivity. High-quality forages must not contain harmful levels of anti-quality components.
Animal performance is the ultimate test of forage quality, especially when forages are fed alone and free choice. Forage quality encompasses “nutritive value” (the potential for supplying nutrients, i.e., digestibility and nutrient content), how much animals will consume, and any anti-quality factors present. Animal performance can be influenced by any of several factors associated with either the plants or the animals. Failure to give proper consideration to any of these factors may reduce an animal’s performance level, which in turn reduces potential income.
Analyzing forages for nutrient content can be used to determine whether quality is adequate and to guide proper ration supplementation. In order to better assist producers with quality, we are holding a hay testing day at the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office on Wednesday, August 10th. The Kentucky Department of Agriculture will be here to test hay samples during office hours free of charge. This is a great opportunity to have your hay samples tested and know the nutrient value of it.
Also, on August 9th there will be a Beef Field Day at Cody Robertson’s Farm beginning at 9am and concluding with lunch. Topics that will be covered include reproductive management, cattle handling, cattle facilities and updates on medication and application equipment.
For more information on forage quality or about the upcoming Beef Field Day, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Upcoming Ag Programs
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Expectations of Late Planted Soybeans
Mother Nature certainly has not done us any favors this growing season. After a 21 day spell, we have seen rain almost every day since. Due to all of the rain, saturated soils and poor conditions of crops, many producers are considering replanting soybean fields (if they have not already).
The first question on most minds is “How much yield should I expect from late-planted soybeans?”. According to UK Extension Grains Specialist Dr. Carrie Knott, based upon a 6-year (2006 to 2011) study that examined two relative maturity groups (late group II and mid group IV) the most recent estimate of Kentucky’s soybean yield loss per day is: 0.50% yield loss per day for mid group IV soybean beginning May 9 and 0.42% yield loss per day for late group II soybean beginning April 20.
To calculate expected soybean yield, based upon planting date:
1. Calculate the number of days after the optimal planting date
a. Optimal Planting Date
i. May 9 for mid group IV
ii. April 20 for late group II
2. Calculate expected yield loss
a. Multiply the number of days past the optimal planting date by yield loss per day
b. Yield Loss per Day
i. 0.50% for mid group IV
ii. 0.42% for late group II
3. Multiply average soybean yield by expected yield loss
Additional Considerations
When choosing a cultivar for July or August plantings consider one that is 0.5 to 1.0 relative maturity less than a full season cultivar. This may help reduce the risk of frost damage in the fall, due to an early frost event. Full-season soybean cultivars range from 3.5 to 5.0 relative maturities in Kentucky.
Be aware that reducing the relative maturity of the soybean cultivar by more than about 1.0 relative maturity may increase the risk that the pods will be near or at the soil level. This is because the internode distances are typically reduced as planting date is delayed, which can have a much more dramatic effect on shorter relative maturities.
The calculations above for expected soybean yield assume “normal” weather conditions occur after planting. That means adequate precipitation occurs and no early frost. If either we get an early frost, drought-like conditions, or other stress events occur, soybean yield may be markedly lower than estimated above.
On a different note, Southern Rust has been confirmed in Webster County. It was found on one leaf in a variety plot by one of UK Extension Plant Pathologist Dr. Carl Bradley’s interns. This is about 1 week earlier than when it was detected in KY last year. Most hybrids are susceptible to southern rust. Late-planted corn will be the most at risk. If corn is beyond R3, then probably no need to consider spraying it with a fungicide. Southern rust may still develop in fields that are beyond R3, and it may look really bad, but any yield reduction at that point in time would be small. When scouting for Southern rust look for pustules appearing primarily on the upper leaf surface that are orange to light brown, round, and densely packed on the leaf surface.
For more information on late planting of soybeans or if you suspect your corn may have Southern Rust, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Events
July 29th Extension Blood Drive, 11am-4pm
July 30th Farm to Fork Dinner, 6pm at Myer Creek Park
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
The first question on most minds is “How much yield should I expect from late-planted soybeans?”. According to UK Extension Grains Specialist Dr. Carrie Knott, based upon a 6-year (2006 to 2011) study that examined two relative maturity groups (late group II and mid group IV) the most recent estimate of Kentucky’s soybean yield loss per day is: 0.50% yield loss per day for mid group IV soybean beginning May 9 and 0.42% yield loss per day for late group II soybean beginning April 20.
To calculate expected soybean yield, based upon planting date:
1. Calculate the number of days after the optimal planting date
a. Optimal Planting Date
i. May 9 for mid group IV
ii. April 20 for late group II
2. Calculate expected yield loss
a. Multiply the number of days past the optimal planting date by yield loss per day
b. Yield Loss per Day
i. 0.50% for mid group IV
ii. 0.42% for late group II
3. Multiply average soybean yield by expected yield loss
Additional Considerations
When choosing a cultivar for July or August plantings consider one that is 0.5 to 1.0 relative maturity less than a full season cultivar. This may help reduce the risk of frost damage in the fall, due to an early frost event. Full-season soybean cultivars range from 3.5 to 5.0 relative maturities in Kentucky.
Be aware that reducing the relative maturity of the soybean cultivar by more than about 1.0 relative maturity may increase the risk that the pods will be near or at the soil level. This is because the internode distances are typically reduced as planting date is delayed, which can have a much more dramatic effect on shorter relative maturities.
The calculations above for expected soybean yield assume “normal” weather conditions occur after planting. That means adequate precipitation occurs and no early frost. If either we get an early frost, drought-like conditions, or other stress events occur, soybean yield may be markedly lower than estimated above.
On a different note, Southern Rust has been confirmed in Webster County. It was found on one leaf in a variety plot by one of UK Extension Plant Pathologist Dr. Carl Bradley’s interns. This is about 1 week earlier than when it was detected in KY last year. Most hybrids are susceptible to southern rust. Late-planted corn will be the most at risk. If corn is beyond R3, then probably no need to consider spraying it with a fungicide. Southern rust may still develop in fields that are beyond R3, and it may look really bad, but any yield reduction at that point in time would be small. When scouting for Southern rust look for pustules appearing primarily on the upper leaf surface that are orange to light brown, round, and densely packed on the leaf surface.
For more information on late planting of soybeans or if you suspect your corn may have Southern Rust, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Events
July 29th Extension Blood Drive, 11am-4pm
July 30th Farm to Fork Dinner, 6pm at Myer Creek Park
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Farm to Fork Dinner
Be sure to contact the McLean County Extension Office at (270)273-3690 or stop by during office hours to purchase your ticket for $20. Menu items are produced in McLean County and are a part of the KY Proud program. There will be live entertainment and a silent auction. Proceeds go to God's House of Hope.
Wednesday, July 20, 2016
Conditions for Corn Diseases are Favorable
With all of the rain that has fallen over McLean County this month, conditions have become favorable for some foliar corn diseases. The UK Plant Pathology Lab in Princeton has received samples from Western Kentucky of corn with northern leaf blight, gray leaf spot, common rust, and/or Diplodia leaf streak. As of July 12, southern rust has not been detected in Kentucky however UK Plant Pathology Dr. Carl Bradley warns corn producers to be on the lookout for the following diseases:
Northern Leaf Blight
Northern leaf blight can be a major yield robber in susceptible corn hybrids. Symptoms of this disease are observed on leaves as elliptical (“cigar-shaped”) lesions that have a light to tan-colored center. Some hybrids may have excellent resistance to northern leaf blight, while others may be extremely susceptible. It is important to know how susceptible a hybrid is to this disease to be able to determine the risk of disease occurrence and likelihood of a profitable foliar fungicide application.
This disease may be easily confused with Diplodia leaf streak, which also may appear as elliptical-shaped lesions on leaves. Lesions of Diplodia leaf streak will contain black pin-sized structures known as “pycnidia” inside lesions, which can help distinguish it from northern leaf blight. Diplodia leaf streak appears to still be a minor disease in Kentucky, and management of this disease is likely not needed at this time.
Gray Leaf Spot
Gray leaf spot is likely the most commonly-observed foliar disease of corn in Kentucky. It is observed as rectangular lesions that occur on leaves. Hybrids can vary greatly in their level of susceptibility to this disease, but no hybrid is completely resistant. Conditions have been very favorable for gray leaf spot over the last several days. On susceptible hybrids, expect that gray leaf spot will be very apparent within the next few days. Disease progress can be “sluggish” with this disease at first, since it can take several days between the time of initial infection and the appearance of symptoms; however, severity can increase suddenly when conditions are favorable.
Common Rust
Common rust has been widely observed in the state for several weeks now. In general, most yellow dent corn hybrids have an adequate level of resistance to common rust, and management of common rust with foliar fungicides in yellow dent corn hybrids is not generally needed.
Southern Corn Rust has been confirmed in Webster County. Since most hybrids are susceptible to southern rust, it is important to be able to be able to differentiate southern rust from common rust. The timing of southern rust’s appearance in Kentucky relative to corn growth stage is critically important in regards to risk of yield loss. From Dr. Bradley’s research trials, research results showed the following (in general): if southern rust begins to appear after the R3 (milk) stage, yield loss caused by southern rust will be negligible (although disease levels can still appear to be very severe).
When making decisions about applying a foliar fungicide to corn keep in mind scouting observations, disease risk assessments, and economical considerations. Also, remember that because of current weather conditions and the amount of precipitation we have had in McLean County in July, conditions are favorable for the development of corn diseases.
For more information on corn diseases, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Events
July 28th UK Corn, Soybean & Tobacco Field Day, Princeton Research Station
July 29th Extension Blood Drive, 11am-4pm
July 30th Farm to Fork Dinner, 6pm at Myer Creek Park
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
Northern Leaf Blight
Northern leaf blight can be a major yield robber in susceptible corn hybrids. Symptoms of this disease are observed on leaves as elliptical (“cigar-shaped”) lesions that have a light to tan-colored center. Some hybrids may have excellent resistance to northern leaf blight, while others may be extremely susceptible. It is important to know how susceptible a hybrid is to this disease to be able to determine the risk of disease occurrence and likelihood of a profitable foliar fungicide application.
This disease may be easily confused with Diplodia leaf streak, which also may appear as elliptical-shaped lesions on leaves. Lesions of Diplodia leaf streak will contain black pin-sized structures known as “pycnidia” inside lesions, which can help distinguish it from northern leaf blight. Diplodia leaf streak appears to still be a minor disease in Kentucky, and management of this disease is likely not needed at this time.
Gray Leaf Spot
Gray leaf spot is likely the most commonly-observed foliar disease of corn in Kentucky. It is observed as rectangular lesions that occur on leaves. Hybrids can vary greatly in their level of susceptibility to this disease, but no hybrid is completely resistant. Conditions have been very favorable for gray leaf spot over the last several days. On susceptible hybrids, expect that gray leaf spot will be very apparent within the next few days. Disease progress can be “sluggish” with this disease at first, since it can take several days between the time of initial infection and the appearance of symptoms; however, severity can increase suddenly when conditions are favorable.
Common Rust
Common rust has been widely observed in the state for several weeks now. In general, most yellow dent corn hybrids have an adequate level of resistance to common rust, and management of common rust with foliar fungicides in yellow dent corn hybrids is not generally needed.
Southern Corn Rust has been confirmed in Webster County. Since most hybrids are susceptible to southern rust, it is important to be able to be able to differentiate southern rust from common rust. The timing of southern rust’s appearance in Kentucky relative to corn growth stage is critically important in regards to risk of yield loss. From Dr. Bradley’s research trials, research results showed the following (in general): if southern rust begins to appear after the R3 (milk) stage, yield loss caused by southern rust will be negligible (although disease levels can still appear to be very severe).
When making decisions about applying a foliar fungicide to corn keep in mind scouting observations, disease risk assessments, and economical considerations. Also, remember that because of current weather conditions and the amount of precipitation we have had in McLean County in July, conditions are favorable for the development of corn diseases.
For more information on corn diseases, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Events
July 28th UK Corn, Soybean & Tobacco Field Day, Princeton Research Station
July 29th Extension Blood Drive, 11am-4pm
July 30th Farm to Fork Dinner, 6pm at Myer Creek Park
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
Thursday, July 7, 2016
Wednesday, July 6, 2016
Spotted Wing Drosophila and Small Fruit Production
![]() |
| Cornell University |
SWD attacks many different soft-skin fruiting crops, but historically the most serious damage has been to raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and grapes. It also breeds in fruit of native wild plants like pokeweed, mulberries, wild blackberries, and nightshade.
The female SWD uses her serrated egg layer to cut into the skin of otherwise intact soft-skinned fruits to deposit her eggs. Each female deposits 7 to 16 eggs a day and up to 300 eggs during its lifetime. Eggs hatch in 2 to 72 hours, resulting in small larvae in harvested fruit. SWD will overwinter in Kentucky as it survives in states to our north and parts of Canada.
Here are some great tips for checking fruit and management of SWD from UK Extension Entomologist Ric Bessin:
Checking Fruit: When harvesting take the time to thoroughly look over each berry. Externally berries may look unifested but larvae may still be inside. If a berry is very soft, collapsing on itself, or is watery near the cap of the fruit, SWD larvae are most likely present. These berries should be discarded away from the field, and preferably bagged for disposal. We are not aware of any known risk to human health by ingesting SWD eggs and larvae.
Management: Refrigeration- Berries that have no visible damaged should be placed directly in the refrigerator. Placing the berries in the refrigerator will stop the development of the SWD if they are present, both hatched and unhatched. Freezing berries will kill SWD and holding berries at 34F for 72 hrs will kill most of the eggs and larger larvae.
Netting- Mechanical control maybe an option for homeowners, as with many of the small fruit crops we often use netting to keep the birds from eating the berries. For the SWD the same concept applies except the netting must be a fine mesh, with opening of less than 1 mm. ProTekNet is a brand of netting that provides netting small enough (less than a 1mm square opening) that can exclude SWD, but spun bond row covers should work as well. Netting should be placed over the planting when the earliest berries begin to turn color prior to harvest. Netting may interfere with pollination of later raspberry flowers, but this maybe a sacrifice to save the rest of the crop. The netting must be secured along the ground to prevent any openings for SWD to enter. On larger plantings a structure might be installed to help support the netting and allow a person to pick underneath the netting. The netting will have to remain over the crop until harvest is finished.
Sanitation- It is also important to remove any damaged fruit from the field, as these fruits may contain SWD eggs and larvae. Overripe, damaged, or rotting fruit should be collected, placed in clear bags, and left in the sun. Burial of infested fruit is ineffective as the larvae can emerge from depths of one foot or more.
If you suspect you have a spotted wing drosophila problem, or would like more information on SWD, please contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Events
July 13th WKU Hemp Field Day
July 14th-16th Ag Festival
July 28th UK Corn, Soybean & Tobacco Field Day
July 29th Extension Blood Drive
July 30th Farm to Fork Dinner
August 4th Forestry Program
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
Summer Newsletter
Click the following link to read my summer newsletter:
https://issuu.com/caryhicks/docs/skmbt_c55216070511330/6?e=15773727/30000297
https://issuu.com/caryhicks/docs/skmbt_c55216070511330/6?e=15773727/30000297
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Friday, April 22, 2016
14th Annual McLean County Plant Swap & Sale
As you start to prep your garden, purchase vegetable transplants and fill your flower pots on your porch, you may want to think about attending the upcoming Plant Swap and Sale. Saturday, April 30th will mark the 14th year of the McLean County Plant Swap and Sale. In its first years, organizers held this event in the parking lot behind the courthouse. As the event has seen many changes over the past 14 years, it will be held in the 4-H Activities Building at Myer Creek Park again this year.
As of right now, there are 10 vendors that have signed up to sell various plants. Plant enthusiast will have the opportunity to purchase the following plants from 8am-1pm: Various Annuals, Various Vegetables Slips, Strawberry Slips, Heirloom Tomatoes, Hollies, Daylilies, Iris, Various Herbs, Hostas, Black-Eyed Susans, Cannas, Verbena, Bachelor Button, Widow’s Tear, Nandina, Marigolds, Dianthus, Petunias, Geraniums, Daffodils, Belladonna Lily, Lilac Bushes and Ferns, in addition to others.
Concessions will be sold at this event and there will also be a yard sale in the adjacent pavilion. The McLean County 4-H will be conducting kids’ activities throughout the event, and from 9am until 1pm, the public will be able to turn in any expired and/or unused prescription medicine as part of National Drug Take Back Day. Door prizes will also be given out throughout the day.
For more information about this year’s Plant Swap and Sale or if you are interested in being a vendor, please contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
As of right now, there are 10 vendors that have signed up to sell various plants. Plant enthusiast will have the opportunity to purchase the following plants from 8am-1pm: Various Annuals, Various Vegetables Slips, Strawberry Slips, Heirloom Tomatoes, Hollies, Daylilies, Iris, Various Herbs, Hostas, Black-Eyed Susans, Cannas, Verbena, Bachelor Button, Widow’s Tear, Nandina, Marigolds, Dianthus, Petunias, Geraniums, Daffodils, Belladonna Lily, Lilac Bushes and Ferns, in addition to others.
Concessions will be sold at this event and there will also be a yard sale in the adjacent pavilion. The McLean County 4-H will be conducting kids’ activities throughout the event, and from 9am until 1pm, the public will be able to turn in any expired and/or unused prescription medicine as part of National Drug Take Back Day. Door prizes will also be given out throughout the day.
For more information about this year’s Plant Swap and Sale or if you are interested in being a vendor, please contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Tuesday, April 12, 2016
Be on the Look Out for Stripe Rust and Leaf Rust in Wheat
Stripe Rust was diagnosed by the Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory at the UKREC last week in a wheat sample that came from Lyon County. In addition, Leaf Rust of wheat has been observed in states south of Kentucky (Arkansas and Mississippi), and appears to be moving northward.
Accordingly to UK Extension Plant Pathologist Dr. Carl Bradley, some wheat varieties have high levels of resistance to these diseases; therefore, it is important to know the susceptibility of the varieties planted. Resistant varieties likely will not require any additional management for rust disease control; however, a foliar fungicide application may need to be considered for susceptible varieties.
When scouting wheat for Strip Rust, look for yellow, blister-like lesions that are arranged in stripes. The disease is most common on leave, but head tissue can develop the symptoms when disease is severe and left untreated. Leaf Rust can be identified by its small, orangish-brown lesions. It is most commonly found on the leaf, but can also occur on the leaf sheath. Lesions cause by Leaf Rust are normally small and round.
Both of these wheat diseases can be managed by foliar fungicides in the strobilurin family as well as those containing metconazole and tebuconazole. That would include Quadris, Headline, Caramba, Prosaro and/or Embrace.
If you feel like you might have stripe or leaf rust in your wheat (or if you need more information), please contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-2690 so that we can continue to monitor the spread of rust in Kentucky. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Accordingly to UK Extension Plant Pathologist Dr. Carl Bradley, some wheat varieties have high levels of resistance to these diseases; therefore, it is important to know the susceptibility of the varieties planted. Resistant varieties likely will not require any additional management for rust disease control; however, a foliar fungicide application may need to be considered for susceptible varieties.
When scouting wheat for Strip Rust, look for yellow, blister-like lesions that are arranged in stripes. The disease is most common on leave, but head tissue can develop the symptoms when disease is severe and left untreated. Leaf Rust can be identified by its small, orangish-brown lesions. It is most commonly found on the leaf, but can also occur on the leaf sheath. Lesions cause by Leaf Rust are normally small and round.
Both of these wheat diseases can be managed by foliar fungicides in the strobilurin family as well as those containing metconazole and tebuconazole. That would include Quadris, Headline, Caramba, Prosaro and/or Embrace.
If you feel like you might have stripe or leaf rust in your wheat (or if you need more information), please contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-2690 so that we can continue to monitor the spread of rust in Kentucky. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Monday, April 4, 2016
Wednesday, March 30, 2016
Spring Weather Brings Out the Termites
As much as I always look forward to warmer weather, it does not come without some repercussions. And by repercussions I mean insects. Spring typically is when large numbers of winged termites, known as "swarmers," emerge inside homes. In nature, termites swarm to disperse and start new colonies. Triggered by warmer temperatures and rainfall, the winged termites emerge from the colony and fly into the air.
Discovering winged termites indoors almost always indicates an infestation warranting treatment. Termites cause billions of dollars in damage each year. They primarily feed on wood, but also damage paper, books, insulation, and even swimming pool liners and filtration systems. Termites can injure living trees and shrubs, but more often are a secondary invader of woody plants already in decline. While buildings may become infested at any time, termites are of particular importance when buying or selling a home since a termite inspection/infestation report is normally a condition of sale. Besides the monetary impact, thousands of winged termites emerging inside one's home are an emotionally trying experience — not to mention the thought of termites silently feasting on one's largest investment.
According to Mike Potter, UK Extension Entomologist, people often confuse winged termites with ants, which often swarm at the same time of year. Termites can be differentiated by their straight antennae, uniform waist and wings of equal size. (Ants have elbowed antennae, constricted waists and forewings that are longer than the hind wings.)
The swarmers are attracted to light and are often seen around windows and doors. Termite swarmers emerging from tree stumps, woodpiles, and other locations out in the yard are not necessarily cause for concern, and do not necessarily mean that the house is infested. On the other hand, if winged termites are seen emerging from the base of a foundation wall or adjoining porches and patios, there's a good chance the house is infested also and treatment may be warranted.
Other signs of infestation are earthen (mud) tubes extending over foundation walls, support piers, sill plates, floor joists, etc. The mud tubes are typically about the diameter of a pencil, but sometimes can be thicker.
Termites construct these tubes for shelter as they travel between their underground colonies and the structure. To help determine if an infestation is active, the tubes may be broken open and checked for the presence of small, creamy-white worker termites.
If a tube happens to be vacant, it does not necessarily mean that the infestation is inactive; termites often abandon sections of tube while foraging elsewhere in the structure.
Termite-damaged wood is usually hollowed out along the grain, with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries. Wood damaged by moisture or other types of insects (e.g., carpenter ants) will not have this appearance. Occasionally termites bore tiny holes through plaster or drywall, accompanied by bits of soil around the margin. Rippled or sunken traces behind wall coverings can also be indicative of termites tunneling underneath.
Oftentimes there will be no visible indication that the home is infested. Termites are cryptic creatures and infestations can go undetected for years, hidden behind walls, floor coverings, insulation, and other obstructions. Termite feeding and damage can even progress undetected in wood that is exposed because the outer surface is usually left intact.
If you feel like your home may be infested with termites, take your time when selecting a company. Termites damage wood slowly; the amount of damage caused by taking an additional day, week, or month to make an informed decision generally is insignificant. Avoid firms that try to pressure you into signing a contract immediately with "specials" or scare tactics. The overall quality of the job depends less on the sales person than on the individual who does the work. A safe and effective treatment requires an experienced technician, not someone who was hired a few weeks ago. Also, make sure that the company is licensed by the Department of Agriculture. Membership in the state pest control association and/or National Pest Management Association suggest the company is an established firm with access to technical and training information needed to do the job correctly. As with any service company, references are invaluable. Consider calling at least 2-3 companies. Requesting inspections and estimates from more than one will help verify the existence of a termite problem and allow you to compare services.
For more information on termite control, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Ag Events
April 11th Ag Festival Committee Meeting, 5pm
April 13th Cover Crops Field Day at Mark Howard’s Farm, 9am
April 28th CPH Sale
April 30th Plant Swap & Sale, Myer Creek Park
Discovering winged termites indoors almost always indicates an infestation warranting treatment. Termites cause billions of dollars in damage each year. They primarily feed on wood, but also damage paper, books, insulation, and even swimming pool liners and filtration systems. Termites can injure living trees and shrubs, but more often are a secondary invader of woody plants already in decline. While buildings may become infested at any time, termites are of particular importance when buying or selling a home since a termite inspection/infestation report is normally a condition of sale. Besides the monetary impact, thousands of winged termites emerging inside one's home are an emotionally trying experience — not to mention the thought of termites silently feasting on one's largest investment.
According to Mike Potter, UK Extension Entomologist, people often confuse winged termites with ants, which often swarm at the same time of year. Termites can be differentiated by their straight antennae, uniform waist and wings of equal size. (Ants have elbowed antennae, constricted waists and forewings that are longer than the hind wings.)
The swarmers are attracted to light and are often seen around windows and doors. Termite swarmers emerging from tree stumps, woodpiles, and other locations out in the yard are not necessarily cause for concern, and do not necessarily mean that the house is infested. On the other hand, if winged termites are seen emerging from the base of a foundation wall or adjoining porches and patios, there's a good chance the house is infested also and treatment may be warranted.
Other signs of infestation are earthen (mud) tubes extending over foundation walls, support piers, sill plates, floor joists, etc. The mud tubes are typically about the diameter of a pencil, but sometimes can be thicker.
Termites construct these tubes for shelter as they travel between their underground colonies and the structure. To help determine if an infestation is active, the tubes may be broken open and checked for the presence of small, creamy-white worker termites.
If a tube happens to be vacant, it does not necessarily mean that the infestation is inactive; termites often abandon sections of tube while foraging elsewhere in the structure.
Termite-damaged wood is usually hollowed out along the grain, with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries. Wood damaged by moisture or other types of insects (e.g., carpenter ants) will not have this appearance. Occasionally termites bore tiny holes through plaster or drywall, accompanied by bits of soil around the margin. Rippled or sunken traces behind wall coverings can also be indicative of termites tunneling underneath.
Oftentimes there will be no visible indication that the home is infested. Termites are cryptic creatures and infestations can go undetected for years, hidden behind walls, floor coverings, insulation, and other obstructions. Termite feeding and damage can even progress undetected in wood that is exposed because the outer surface is usually left intact.
If you feel like your home may be infested with termites, take your time when selecting a company. Termites damage wood slowly; the amount of damage caused by taking an additional day, week, or month to make an informed decision generally is insignificant. Avoid firms that try to pressure you into signing a contract immediately with "specials" or scare tactics. The overall quality of the job depends less on the sales person than on the individual who does the work. A safe and effective treatment requires an experienced technician, not someone who was hired a few weeks ago. Also, make sure that the company is licensed by the Department of Agriculture. Membership in the state pest control association and/or National Pest Management Association suggest the company is an established firm with access to technical and training information needed to do the job correctly. As with any service company, references are invaluable. Consider calling at least 2-3 companies. Requesting inspections and estimates from more than one will help verify the existence of a termite problem and allow you to compare services.
For more information on termite control, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Upcoming Ag Events
April 11th Ag Festival Committee Meeting, 5pm
April 13th Cover Crops Field Day at Mark Howard’s Farm, 9am
April 28th CPH Sale
April 30th Plant Swap & Sale, Myer Creek Park
Wednesday, March 23, 2016
Spring Lawn Care
Even though we were all wearing our winter coats to go outside this past Sunday, Spring is officially here! I know many of us were excited to gas up the mower and shake off the dust for the first time this season last week before the cold spell hit. Now that mowing season has finally kicked off, it is time to start thinking more about spring lawn care. Having a well-manicured lawn will improve the aesthetics and value of your property, and it really isn’t as hard as it sounds.
Weed control plays a huge part in having a healthy lawn. The best defense against weeds in home lawns is a healthy, dense lawn. In thick lawns, weed seeds may not germinate because light may never reach the soil surface. A thick lawn is com¬petitive with weeds, keeping them from growing and reproducing. Developing a healthy and dense lawn comes from using cultural practices such as proper grass species and cultivar selection, proper mowing heights and fertilization, and other good management practices. The need for herbicides to control weeds in home lawns can be greatly reduced if the lawn is well maintained.
There are instances, however, when weeds escape and more aggressive con¬trol tactics are necessary. Even in well-maintained lawns, weeds can become a problem. Some weeds adapt to lawn management practices, and diseased or drought-stressed lawns can result in thin turf and create openings for weed germination. Control tactics can in¬clude herbicide applications or physical removal of the weeds. In small areas, or if the weed infestation is not severe, physical removal is the control method of choice. However, an herbicide application can provide the lawn a better chance of successfully competing with weeds. For all weeds, herbicide treatment when the weeds are young will result in the easiest and best opportunity for control using the least amount of herbicide.
Herbicides available for use in home lawn weed control can be classified by when they are applied—either before or after weeds appear—and whether they are selective or nonselective. A pre-emergent herbicide is applied before weeds appear and controls them as the seed germinate. A common misconcep¬tion is that pre-emergent herbicides kill weeds before they germinate. Actually, pre-emergent herbicides form a residual barrier in the upper soil layer and must be applied prior to weed seed germination to be effective. When seeds germinate and young weed seedlings begin to grow near the soil surface, the seedling comes in contact with the herbicide barrier. The herbicide is then taken into the plant, and the weed dies. Lawn grasses with established root systems are unaffected by the herbicide barrier.
Selective post-emergent herbicides are applied after weeds germinate and plants are visible. The most commonly used post-emergent, selective herbicide is 2,4-D. These herbicides are most ef-fective when applied to young, actively growing weeds. Most pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides selectively control the undesired species without damaging the turf. Nonselective her-bicides, usually applied post-emergent, often will injure or kill all plants within the treated area, both desirable and un¬desirable ones that come in contact with the herbicide. Nonselective herbicides are typically reserved for spot treatments or total renovation of an area.
Spot treating weeds is typically per¬formed with a handheld sprayer. This method of weed control can be very ef¬fective and uses less herbicide. However, because non-selective herbicides will kill your desired lawn species as well as the weeds, the application must be carefully controlled to keep these spots as small as possible.
Some herbicides are packaged with a fertilizer as a “weed and feed” product. These products should be avoided in the spring for cool-season lawns, which are composed of tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. In Kentucky it is recommended that fertil¬izer should not be applied to these lawns in the spring. Spring and summer fertil¬izer applications lead to increased lawn disease and weed infestations. The best time of year to fertilize cool-season lawns is in the fall, not with “weed and feed” in the spring and summer.
Remember that the best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Using good management practices may make herbicides unnecessary, but if you expe¬rience weed problems, you may choose to apply an herbicide to give your lawn a fighting chance to successfully compete with the weeds. You must identify the kind of weed you want to control so that you can choose the herbicide that will be effective in your environment and always be sure to carefully read the herbicide labels before each use.
For more information on Spring Lawn Care, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Weed control plays a huge part in having a healthy lawn. The best defense against weeds in home lawns is a healthy, dense lawn. In thick lawns, weed seeds may not germinate because light may never reach the soil surface. A thick lawn is com¬petitive with weeds, keeping them from growing and reproducing. Developing a healthy and dense lawn comes from using cultural practices such as proper grass species and cultivar selection, proper mowing heights and fertilization, and other good management practices. The need for herbicides to control weeds in home lawns can be greatly reduced if the lawn is well maintained.
There are instances, however, when weeds escape and more aggressive con¬trol tactics are necessary. Even in well-maintained lawns, weeds can become a problem. Some weeds adapt to lawn management practices, and diseased or drought-stressed lawns can result in thin turf and create openings for weed germination. Control tactics can in¬clude herbicide applications or physical removal of the weeds. In small areas, or if the weed infestation is not severe, physical removal is the control method of choice. However, an herbicide application can provide the lawn a better chance of successfully competing with weeds. For all weeds, herbicide treatment when the weeds are young will result in the easiest and best opportunity for control using the least amount of herbicide.
Herbicides available for use in home lawn weed control can be classified by when they are applied—either before or after weeds appear—and whether they are selective or nonselective. A pre-emergent herbicide is applied before weeds appear and controls them as the seed germinate. A common misconcep¬tion is that pre-emergent herbicides kill weeds before they germinate. Actually, pre-emergent herbicides form a residual barrier in the upper soil layer and must be applied prior to weed seed germination to be effective. When seeds germinate and young weed seedlings begin to grow near the soil surface, the seedling comes in contact with the herbicide barrier. The herbicide is then taken into the plant, and the weed dies. Lawn grasses with established root systems are unaffected by the herbicide barrier.
Selective post-emergent herbicides are applied after weeds germinate and plants are visible. The most commonly used post-emergent, selective herbicide is 2,4-D. These herbicides are most ef-fective when applied to young, actively growing weeds. Most pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides selectively control the undesired species without damaging the turf. Nonselective her-bicides, usually applied post-emergent, often will injure or kill all plants within the treated area, both desirable and un¬desirable ones that come in contact with the herbicide. Nonselective herbicides are typically reserved for spot treatments or total renovation of an area.
Spot treating weeds is typically per¬formed with a handheld sprayer. This method of weed control can be very ef¬fective and uses less herbicide. However, because non-selective herbicides will kill your desired lawn species as well as the weeds, the application must be carefully controlled to keep these spots as small as possible.
Some herbicides are packaged with a fertilizer as a “weed and feed” product. These products should be avoided in the spring for cool-season lawns, which are composed of tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. In Kentucky it is recommended that fertil¬izer should not be applied to these lawns in the spring. Spring and summer fertil¬izer applications lead to increased lawn disease and weed infestations. The best time of year to fertilize cool-season lawns is in the fall, not with “weed and feed” in the spring and summer.
Remember that the best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Using good management practices may make herbicides unnecessary, but if you expe¬rience weed problems, you may choose to apply an herbicide to give your lawn a fighting chance to successfully compete with the weeds. You must identify the kind of weed you want to control so that you can choose the herbicide that will be effective in your environment and always be sure to carefully read the herbicide labels before each use.
For more information on Spring Lawn Care, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Wednesday, March 16, 2016
Time to Think About Spring Weather Safety
After the crazy highs and lows we have had in our weather this winter, I’m sure we are all anticipating spring and more steady temperatures. Still, changeable weather is one of the harbingers of the season, and often it comes in the form of high winds and blustery conditions. Even though tornadoes can occur in any season, they are most common in spring, along with downbursts and windstorms.
According to UKAg Meteorologist Tom Priddy, tornadoes form thousands of feet above the earth’s surface usually during warm, humid, unsettled weather and typically in conjunction with a severe thunderstorm. Along with rain, dust and debris are sucked into the center of the air column and form the distinct funnel shape that identifies a tornado. Wind speeds, ranging from 40 to more than 300 mph, can be extremely destructive. A tornado can level a building or a farm, lift a railroad car off its tracks and strip asphalt from pavement.
Derecho windstorms and downbursts also come from thunderstorms. Derechos are rapidly moving, large-scale and long-lived wind events associated with bands of thunderstorms or showers. Winds ranging from 57 to more than 100 miles per hour can topple 18-wheelers and blow down trees. Downbursts are much smaller and are formed by high winds that funnel down to the surface from the upper levels of thunderstorms. Both can cause serious damage and can be life threatening, so even when just a thunderstorm watch or warning has been issued you should always be prepared.
Make a tornado emergency plan for home, work and the farm. Keep a weather radio in good working condition with extra batteries and make sure you, your family and your farm employees know what precautions to take in your home, on the farm, in a vehicle, open country or other situations that may arise.
In your home, shop or any sturdy building, take shelter in the lowest level away from any windows, preferably under a sturdy object to protect yourself from falling debris.
In your car, you should attempt to drive to shelter. If this is not possible, exit the vehicle and take cover by laying down in a ditch or low-lying area with your hands over your head. If a low-lying area is not nearby or you cannot exit your vehicle, strap on your seat belt, cover your head and keep your body below window level.
In a mobile home, even if it is tied down, always evacuate and take cover in a low-lying area and cover your head.
UK Extension Beef Specialist Dr. Roy Burris suggests that special considerations for livestock producers include moving livestock to high ground in case of heavy rain and potential flash flooding. If moving livestock is not possible, open gates so they can escape high water. You should take precautions against lightning strikes by preventing animals from herding under isolated trees and moving them away from other large conductors that may attract lightning.
There will be a Disaster Preparedness Program at the Extension Office on Thursday, March 25th at 5:30pm. For more information on this program or about severe weather preparedness, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
According to UKAg Meteorologist Tom Priddy, tornadoes form thousands of feet above the earth’s surface usually during warm, humid, unsettled weather and typically in conjunction with a severe thunderstorm. Along with rain, dust and debris are sucked into the center of the air column and form the distinct funnel shape that identifies a tornado. Wind speeds, ranging from 40 to more than 300 mph, can be extremely destructive. A tornado can level a building or a farm, lift a railroad car off its tracks and strip asphalt from pavement.
Derecho windstorms and downbursts also come from thunderstorms. Derechos are rapidly moving, large-scale and long-lived wind events associated with bands of thunderstorms or showers. Winds ranging from 57 to more than 100 miles per hour can topple 18-wheelers and blow down trees. Downbursts are much smaller and are formed by high winds that funnel down to the surface from the upper levels of thunderstorms. Both can cause serious damage and can be life threatening, so even when just a thunderstorm watch or warning has been issued you should always be prepared.
Make a tornado emergency plan for home, work and the farm. Keep a weather radio in good working condition with extra batteries and make sure you, your family and your farm employees know what precautions to take in your home, on the farm, in a vehicle, open country or other situations that may arise.
In your home, shop or any sturdy building, take shelter in the lowest level away from any windows, preferably under a sturdy object to protect yourself from falling debris.
In your car, you should attempt to drive to shelter. If this is not possible, exit the vehicle and take cover by laying down in a ditch or low-lying area with your hands over your head. If a low-lying area is not nearby or you cannot exit your vehicle, strap on your seat belt, cover your head and keep your body below window level.
In a mobile home, even if it is tied down, always evacuate and take cover in a low-lying area and cover your head.
UK Extension Beef Specialist Dr. Roy Burris suggests that special considerations for livestock producers include moving livestock to high ground in case of heavy rain and potential flash flooding. If moving livestock is not possible, open gates so they can escape high water. You should take precautions against lightning strikes by preventing animals from herding under isolated trees and moving them away from other large conductors that may attract lightning.
There will be a Disaster Preparedness Program at the Extension Office on Thursday, March 25th at 5:30pm. For more information on this program or about severe weather preparedness, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)









