Friday, February 28, 2014
Wednesday, February 26, 2014
I’m Glad I Know Where My Food Comes From
I
don’t about you all, but I love to eat.
I’ll admit, eating is one of my favorite hobbies. In fact, I’m enjoying a hot sausage and egg
sandwich as I’m writing this (and the grease on my computer keys proves
it). I also enjoy the fact that while I
am eating, I know where my food comes from.
I know the hog farmer that spent countless hours and money maintaining
proper herd health and while providing his hogs with the proper nutrition,
facilities and medications that they needed.
I enjoy the fact that the eggs I fixed came from my own barn. I also know that the bread I carefully
toasted to perfection to complete my sandwich came from the fields of a
well-educated grain farmer.
Growing
up on a farm, I had always assumed everyone understood the source of food
products. However, the older I get the
more I realize how wrong I was in that assumption. While many of us do realize the hard work,
time and money that is invested in producing our food, sadly there are people
that do not understand where their food comes from. Unfortunately too many of those people would
rather believe what they read on social media or listen to bogus rumors about
their food sources instead of taking the time to do their research and educate
themselves about their food. If our generation
claims to be so health conscious, then I would expect more people to believe
the real facts about farming and food production rather than what they read on
social media.
We
are so fortunate in the United States to have the safest food supply. Our farmers have the most stringent
regulations on grain, fruit, vegetable and animal production put on them by the
USDA and FDA. Even with all the rules,
regulations, testing and research that goes into our food, we still pay less
for groceries than any other country in the world. That means our farmers make less from each
dollar sold in the grocery than any others.
Yet still, people want to publically criticize farmers and tell them how
to do their job.
Not
only are our farmers having to jump through hoops for the government rules and
regulations, but they are constantly having to attend educational programming
and educated themselves on technology, safe uses of pesticides and herbicides,
seed varieties, parasite control, marketing, environmental issues, water
quality management, business managements and several other important facets of
the industry. Within the Cooperative
Extension Service alone, we offer several educational programming for all
producers, many which are mandatory such as Pesticide Certification, Beef
Quality Assurance, Pork Quality Assurance, and GAP (Good Agricultural
Practices).
Next
time you are led to believe that our food isn’t safe for consumption or you get
frustrated because you get behind a tractor on the road, just take a minute to
stop and think about what all our farmers do to make sure that your grocery
store is stocked with a food supply for you to purchase. Be thankful that farmers take their job so
seriously that they put endless hours into producing and marketing the “product
of our toil”, and they care enough to make sure they continuously educated
themselves on all facets of the agricultural industry. They really are a “Jack of All Trades” and
deserve our appreciation for all the time, hard work and money they invest in
providing all of us with a safe food supply.
I
doubt that you could find a better humanitarian, environmental steward and
animal caretaker than a farmer. So
farmers, thank you from the bottom of my heart for providing me and my family
with a safe food supply. I appreciate
you and all that you do to protect consumers and meet all of our needs.
If
you would like more information on educational programming provided by the
McLean County Cooperative Extension Service, please call 273-3690.
Dr. Edwin Ritchey Warns About Applying Nitrogen to Frozen Ground
Some producers are taking advantage of frozen ground conditions to apply nitrogen to
wheat fields or manure to corn fields. While this practice reduces the risk of compaction or
rutting of fields, there are other factors to consider. When applications are made to frozen
ground one must consider what happens if it rains and the ground is still frozen or
saturated. When the soil is frozen or saturated, water is not able to infiltrate into the soil
profile and the water and nutrients can runoff to adjoining properties or waterways. NRCS
Code 590 prohibits the application of manure to frozen ground for this reason (document
attached). Yesterday (January 30th) the depth of frozen soil was measured at Princeton on
a Zanesville silt loam soil and a Pembroke silt loam soil. Soil was frozen to a depth of 6 to 9
inches and no “thawed ground” was observed even though air temperatures were above 32
degrees Fahrenheit. With rain forecasted in the next 24 to 48 hours, little infiltration will
occur and added nutrients will move with the water, often offsite. Although the ability to
traffic a field may be the primary consideration for a producer, they should also think about
what happens if a significant rainfall event occurs (off-site movement of nutrients). In
addition to the environmental consequences, the loss of nutrients is an economic loss.
Although it is tempting to “get over the ground” while it is frozen, be aware of the potential
agronomic, economic, and environmental consequences associated with this decision.
Please make your producers aware of the potential losses that can occur when making
nutrient applications to frozen ground. Be patient and wait to apply nutrients when soil and
environmental conditions are more favorable.
Thank you,
Edwin
Edwin Ritchey, Ph.D., CPSS
Extension Soils Specialist
University of Kentucky
Plant and Soil Sciences
Research and Education Center
Office: 270-365-7541 ext. 301
Mobile: 270-625-8825
Getting Ready for the Upcoming Kidding Season
Now that winter is in full swing, many
goat producers are anticipating kiddin in late January-early March. Kidding season can be both exciting and
exhausting. Of course, it is best to
plan ahead by preparing a herd health program and putting together a “kidding
kit” to hopefully prevent some of the exhaustion.
Nutrition is very important in the last
two months of pregnancy. Undernourishment
in pregnant does will result in smaller kids, increased mortality and slower
growth rates. During this time, does
require feed that provides them with more energy. This is a good time to increase your sources
of energy in goat feed such as corn, oats, dried molasses or dried citrus
pulp. A doe’s appetite will drop off
during this time, and because of her growing uterus can only consume small
amounts of feed at a time. Therefore it
is important to increase the quality of her feed and her hay.
Not only is it important to provide
proper nutrition for your pregnant does, but preventative management also plays
a huge role in your herd health program.
Be sure to monitor your does for any worm problems and de-worm any does
showing signs one month prior to kidding. Be sure to read the label on your de-worming
medication. Not all de-wormers are
suitable for pregnant does. Vaccination for Clostridium perfringens C and D and
tetanus toxiod (CDT) should be given to does 3 weeks prior to kidding season so
that immunities can be passed on to the kids.
Having a “kidding kit” readily available
is highly recommended. I have a bad
habit of leaving things lying around all over the barn, so having them all in
one place and ready to go when does/kids start showing signs of stress could be
the difference between life and death in your goats. To start with, kits should contain a
disinfectant soap, examination gloves, scissors and paper towels/shop
clothes. You should also equipment your
kit with syringes, needles, feeding tube, small bottle, milk replacer and
Iodine 7%. It is a good idea to have
vitamin A, D, E, vitamin B complex and BoSe on hand. BoSe is a vitamin E and selenium source that
can be given to each kid at birth.
For more information on goat herd
management and preparing for kidding, contact the McLean County Cooperative
Extension Service at 273-3690.
Take Precautions to Help Newborn Calves Survive Bitter Cold
With temperatures and wind
chills falling lower than our area has seen in nearly two decades, it goes
without saying that our livestock producers’ job just got harder and hours got
even longer. As if calving season isn’t
difficult enough, cattle producers need to pay even more special attention to
newborn calves.
University of Kentucky College
of Agriculture, Food and Environment ruminant veterinarian Michelle Arnold said
extra precautions would go a long way in helping calves survive.
“A calf’s body temperature
often falls below normal due to a slow birth, followed by a delay in standing
and nursing,” she said. “That is the immediate concern, and then the next step
is maintaining the calf’s core temperature.”
If possible, producers should
bring cows into the barn to calve in a heavily bedded, clean pen. If cows must
calve outdoors, make sure there is dry, clean ground available without a large
amount of manure. If cows do calve outdoors and calves show signs of
hypothermia, or there are no natural windbreaks, producers should bring calves
in until they are warm and dry.
Signs of hypothermia include
shivering and blood shunting. In the early stages of hypothermia, a calf will
show vigorous shivering usually accompanied by increased pulse and breathing
rate. Cold nostrils and pale, cold hooves are early signs that blood is being
shunted away from the body’s extremities. Watch for erratic behavior, confusion
and a clumsy gait. As hypothermia progresses, shivering stops and muscles
become rigid and pulse and respiration slow down. Brain cell metabolism slows
and impairs brain function. The calf’s level of consciousness deteriorates and
signs of life become difficult to detect. The pupils of the eyes will be
dilated and fixed, and it may be hard to detect a pulse. The calf may have
occasional gasps of respiration, and that may be the only clue that the calf is
still alive. Heart failure may be the actual cause of death.
“The two most important
factors in calf survival are warmth and colostrum,” Arnold said. “Colostrum is
a concentrated source of protein, vitamins, minerals and energy, and it also
contains antibodies to diseases or vaccines that the mother cow has been
exposed to. Before you give colostrum, you need to make sure to warm the calf
because the weak ones may not have enough strength to suckle. Sometimes you may
need to deliver colostrum through an esophageal feeder.”
Dark Karo syrup is a quick
source of energy for calves and their bloodstream quickly absorbs it.
Ways to warm newborn calves:
·
Place calves next to floorboard heaters of pickup trucks.
·
Submerse wet calves in warm baths and gradually heat the water to 100 degrees
Fahrenheit. Handlers need to support the calves’ heads to prevent drowning.
Continue changing water out to maintain temperature.
·
Place calves next to the heater in the house.
·
Place calves under heat lamps, but be careful to cover the lamp with a screen
so the calf will not get burned as it becomes more active.
·
Wrap the calf in warm blankets, but not so hot that they burn the skin. Change
the blankets as necessary to maintain warmth.
·
Place the calf in a hot box or warming box, but not so hot that they burn the
skin. Some type of venting is necessary to prevent carbon monoxide and
moisture. Air movement is important to ensure thorough warming and to prevent
hot spots in the warming box.
·
Administer warm IV fluids.
“Once the calf is warm,
provide colostrum and maintain body temperature,” Arnold said. “If the calf is
unwilling to suckle and it’s not possible to milk the mother cow, you should
consider commercial colostrum-replacement products.”
Calves need colostrum as soon
as possible after the suckle reflex has returned, generally within the first
six hours after birth, but ideally within the first hour or two. Once the calf
is warm and fed, move it back to its mother.
Be sure to monitor calf and check to ensure that the calf can suckle on
its own.
These tips do not just apply
to newborn calves, but can be used for all animals. For more information, please contact the
McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at 273-3690.
Planning Your Spring Garden and Starting Indoor Transplants
I remember as kid I
loved to “go get the mail” for my parents.
Getting to ride my bike to the post office and be the first to sort
through our mail was a big deal to me.
Now as an adult, walking to the mailbox isn’t near as exciting,
especially when the bills come around.
Even though getting mail isn’t near as much fun, there are still a few
pieces of mail that I get excited about; seed catalogs. I could sit and look at seed catalogs for
hours, carefully reading every description while trying to decide which
varieties I want to plant that year.
It is hard to think that spring is
just around the corner with all the freezing temperatures that we have been
experiencing. However, now is the time
to be planning your spring garden, selecting which varieties you will plant and
purchasing your seed (especially if you plan to start seeds indoor).
When planning your garden, site
selected needs to be at the top of your priority list. Be sure to select a spot that is in full sun
for at least eight hours each day, not shaded, relatively level, well‑drained
and close to a water source. Once you
have selected a site, map out your garden on paper, carefully selecting which
vegetables you plant where. Make sure
you place tall plants (sweet corn, tomatoes, pole beans) on the north or west
side of your garden. This will help
ensure that your sweet corn doesn’t block out your okra’s sunlight or that your
tomato cages aren’t so close to your cucumbers that they take over the
cages.
A good piece of advice for all
gardeners is plan only as large of a garden as you can easily maintain.
Speaking from personal experience, I wish I had followed that advice in
previous years. Beginning gardeners often
overplant, and then they fail because they cannot keep up with the tasks
required (weed and pest control).
When going through those colorful
seed catalogs it is easy to get carried away choosing seeds. Be sure to select varieties that are
recommended for our area. Also, make
sure you choose vegetables that your family and friends enjoy eating. You don’t want to see fresh, homegrown
produce go to waste because no one likes to eat it.
Once you have selected and purchased
your seeds, you can start your seeds indoors.
For indoor growing, sow seeds in a plant tray containing an artificial
growing medium of peat moss and perlite available at garden centers. Adding
compost to the potting media at up to 25% of total volume can reduce the need
for fertilizers later and potentially encourage seed germination. Enclose the seeded trays in a plastic bag and
keep them at room temperature until seedlings begin to emerge. Then, remove the
plastic and transfer the trays to suitable growing areas.
The average windowsill is one
location for growing plants, but it usually does not get enough light. So, you
have to use artificial light to supplement. Use cool white fluorescent lamps
alone, a mixture of cool white and warm white fluorescent lamps, or a mixture
of cool white
and plant growth
fluorescent lamps. Locate the lamps 5 to 10 inches from the foliage and operate
them 12 to 18 hours/day. Be sure to keep seedlings cool enough (60° to 65°F)
for strong, sturdy growth after they germinate.
Once a day lightly brush your hand over the tops of the seedlings in
different directions. This will help the
seedling develop a stronger stem.
Plants should be “hardened off ”
about two weeks before planting them in the garden. That is, you toughen the
plants so that they can withstand the outside environment. To do so, begin
exposing them to lower temperatures. One way is to take your transplants
outside in
the daytime and bring
them in at night. However, don’t let them get caught in a frost. Reduce your
watering and fertilizing of transplants to help “hardening off ” about one week
before transplanting. Do not let them dry out and wilt.
Soil preparation for your garden
varies from home to home. Be sure to
have a soil test done on your garden site and follow the recommendations accordingly. Few home garden sites have the ideal soil,
but most soils can be modified to provide more favorable growing
conditions. Soil samples can be done
through the Extension Office for $7 or you can have them done at the place of
your choice.
For more information on spring
garden planning, starting transplants indoors or home vegetable gardening in
Kentucky, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at
273-3690.
Farmers’ Market Can Provide Many Benefits to County
Eating
healthier, supporting the local economy, saving on fuel cost and community
fellowship; these are just four great reasons to be a part of a local Farmers’
Market.
Farmers' Markets
are becoming big business in Kentucky. The Commonwealth has 147 Farmers' Markets
and well in excess of 2,500 vendors. Large markets in Lexington, Louisville,
and northern Kentucky offer a vast array of local foods and a carnival-like
atmosphere. At the same time, dynamic markets led by dedicated local producers
are springing up in rural areas all over the Bluegrass State. More than ever,
Kentuckians want to buy local food for their families, and they appreciate the
experience of buying it directly from the people who grew or made it.
Direct marketing of farm
products through Farmers’ Markets has become an increasingly important sales
outlet for agricultural producers. This is mostly due to growing interest among
consumers in understanding where their food comes from. Farmers’ Markets allow
consumers to have access to locally produced, farm-fresh food and the
opportunity to personally interact with the individuals that produced the food.
After making visits to
Farmers’ Markets in Kentucky and Tennessee, I realized I wanted to take a
chance at bringing this to McLean County.
The atmosphere alone won me over.
Even though I grow my own fresh vegetables at home, I still found myself
purchasing from other producers at the markets.
The opportunity to hear the producers’ story as well as sharing ideas,
recipes and gardening secrets was invaluable.
Plus I enjoy knowing that the money I spent at the Farmers’ Market went
into the pockets of the producers.
Starting a County Farmers’
Market isn’t something that can be done by one or two people; it is going to
take the efforts of many. If you would
like to be a part of the McLean County Farmers’ Market there will be an
informational meeting on Monday, March 10th at 4pm at the McLean
County Cooperative Extension Office. If
you have any questions or would like to know more, please contact the Extension
Office at 273-3690.
Tips for Profitable Cash Hay Operations
Cash hay sales can be an excellent
additional income source for many Kentucky farmers. Especially when many of us need the hay, but
can’t justify purchasing all the equipment to produce our own. UK Extension Forage Specialist Dr. Garry
Lacefield offers these management tips to help you generate the most profit
from your hay enterprise.
1. Do
extensive research on the market and your potential customers. Save some bales
to show prospective customers or brokers the kind of product you can offer.
2. Realistically
assess your ability to procure labor on a timely basis. Be sure you have labor
lined up before committing to supply large quantities of hay.
3. Base
your estimated income on average, not high, market prices for hay. If you can
succeed on average prices, you will be in great shape in years when prices are
even better. Make a short list of equipment necessary to expand your production
capacity and quickly get hay up. Be tight-fisted, but realistic, about the
budget.
4. Target
the cleanest, densest and most weed-free fields as those most likely to be good
enough for cash hay.
5. Develop
a plan to harvest the heaviest production first and in a timely fashion. This
first harvest can be nearly 50 percent of your annual yield on good stands in
good years.
6. Work
on storage to provide the capacity and access to the hay that you need.
7. Consider
establishing any new alfalfa fields as pure alfalfa and put grass in later.
This will help you manage weeds that are hard or impossible to control in
grass.
8. Develop
a plan to market hay that is off quality. Opportunities include your own
cattle, other beef herds or even as landscape mulch.
9. Learn
all you can about cash hay enterprises from the experts by talking to
experienced growers and attending meetings of the Kentucky Cooperative
Extension Service and other educational organizations and groups.
10. Remember
the hay business is a service operation. Your success may depend as much on
what you are willing to do for the customer as what you can supply.
11. Have
your hay tested and know its quality.
For
more information on forage production or hay quality testing, contact the
McLean Cooperative Extension Service at 273-3690.
Control Lice Before They Reduce Beef Profits This Winter
Lice can suck the
profits out of your beef and dairy cattle herds during the winter. These
cold-loving pests spread when animals bunch together in response to frigid
temperatures, and we’ve already had plenty of those.
You can reduce
potential lice problems on cattle by keeping new animals separate from your
herd until you’ve given them a thorough louse treatment, generally two
applications of a contact insecticide.
According to Lee
Townsend, UK Extension Entomologist, the first application kills active adults
and immature lice, but it won’t destroy nits on the hide. A second application
targets new hatchlings from the nits and any other lice still around. Be sure
to follow the label instructions on treatment intervals. After these two
treatments, you can add new animals to the herd with minimal chance of lice
problems during the winter.
Don’t use systemic
insecticides during the winter unless you know the treatment history of newly
bought cattle. This is because migrating grubs might be in sensitive locations
and cause an adverse reaction this time of year.
Winter also is a good
time to reduce future weevil problems in alfalfa by letting beef or dairy
cattle graze dormant fields. Alfalfa weevils lay a significant number of their
eggs in living and dead stems.
Winter grazing helps
manage alfalfa weevils in two ways. Grazing removes stems holding deposits of
weevil eggs, and it removes stems that can serve as sites for females to lay
the remaining eggs in the spring. Letting your cattle graze alfalfa fields in
the winter can reduce weevil populations substantially, possibly to the level
that you won’t need a spring insecticide application.
For more information
on controlling lice and other livestock insect pests, contact the McLean County
Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs
of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people
regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
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