Taking care of your lawn during the fall is as important as it is during spring and summer, even more so for lawns with cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. Nearly all fertilizers and broadleaf herbicides should be applied in the fall and it is by far the best time to renovate and reseed lawns.
Fertilizing your lawn in the fall will help it grow stronger, thicker and greener. Cool-season grasses should be fertilized with nitrogen in late September and again in four to six weeks. Use either farm fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate or urea, or use specialty fertilizers found in garden centers. The normal rate is 1 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, however it is always best to soil sample and know the exact recommendations for your home lawn. Remember to spread it evenly over your lawn.
If broadleaf weeds such as clover, dandelion, plantain and chickweed are growing in your lawn, fall is the best time of year to get them under control. Almost all broadleaf weeds can be controlled selectively in turfgrass by applying 2, 4-D and/or Dicamba. These are sold in many garden centers under a variety of trade names. For the best results, apply the herbicide on any relatively warm day in late September and/or October. Reminder- crabgrass does not fall into this category.
Summer’s stresses often take a toll on your lawn. The best time to reseed your lawn is in September. Because the goal is to get the seed in close contact with the soil, it is recommended that you first remove surface debris and mechanically groove the soil. This is easier done by traversing the lawn with a dethatching machine that can be rented at many rental centers. Seed a turf-type tall fescue at a rate of 5 to 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet. To avoid uneven application, spread half the seed horizontally across the lawn and the other half vertically. The best and quickest results are obtained if the seeded areas can be kept moist until the seeds germinate.
Remember to continue mowing your lawn as long as the grass is growing. You might want to lower the height in the fall to 2 inches. This tends to keep the grass greener longer in the winter and will help the lawn to green up earlier the next spring. It might even help increase turf density.
For more information on lawn care and renovating your home lawn, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, September 14, 2016
Wednesday, September 7, 2016
Harvest Safety
The combines are finally firing up and rolling through corn fields throughout the county. One of the most taxing periods for Kentucky farmers and their families is the fall harvest season. This is a peak season for agricultural injuries and an especially important time for farm families to remember safety. It is also a time for other drivers to be aware of the increasing number of implements sharing the roadways with them.
Long working hours can lead to fatigue and stress, making you less alert to potential safety hazards. Take some breaks when operating equipment for an extended period of time. If possible, trade off with other workers for a change of pace.
All workers should be trained and physically capable of operating equipment and understand the safety procedures for it. Take time to talk to workers about safety.
Dress appropriately for the job. Avoid loose clothing, jackets with dangling strings, and sweatshirts that could become entangled in moving equipment.
Entanglement in moving parts, especially Power Take-Offs or other chain and belt drives, is a major fall harvest hazard. Inspect machinery and equipment to be sure shields and guards on moving parts are in place and in good repair. Replace ineffective or missing safety equipment. Before getting off field equipment, turn off the engine and wait for moving parts to completely stop.
It is a good idea to take the ignition key with you so another person does not unexpectedly start equipment while you are performing maintenance or repair. If you are working under any piece of equipment, such as a header unit, always use the jack stand or hydraulic cylinder locks to prevent it from suddenly falling and pinning you under. Be sure all safety locks are operational.
A pinhole-size hydraulic leak can cause severe tissue damage. If you are injected with oil from a hydraulic leak, immediately seek medical assistance. The oil must be surgically removed, and delays can result in serious infections and possible amputations. Always use paper or cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks.
Tractor overturns and run-overs are leading causes of farm deaths. Being thrown off a tractor and run over is the second leading cause of tractor deaths in Kentucky. Equip older model tractors with a rollover protective structure (ROPS). Most tractors built after the late 1960s or early 1970s can be equipped with a ROPS for $600 to $1,200.
Make it a habit to use the seat belt to ensure you remain inside the zone of protection provided by the ROPS or safety cab. The seat belt also will keep you from being thrown off the tractor if you hit an obstacle.
Run-over injuries to extra riders, especially those involving children, who fall off are very tragic. Never allow any extra riders on tractors or equipment.
Keep bystanders away from operating equipment. Also, be aware of people who may have come into the area. Check around equipment before starting or moving it.
Carry a fire extinguisher on all tractors and self-propelled equipment, chiefly combines. Frequently check extinguishers to ensure they are pressurized and in good condition. To prevent fires on combines, be sure equipment is clean and hoses and fuel systems are in good shape and not leaking. Remove debris around engine components.
Check for clearances with overhead power lines when operating or moving tall machines, because contact may result in electrocution. Moving portable augers around overhead power lines is especially hazardous so always lower them first.
Keep slow-moving-vehicle emblems and extremity markings clean and bright to help motorists notice equipment. Replace faded emblems and check headlights, taillights and flashing lights for satisfactory operation.
To alert oncoming drivers, use yellow reflectors or yellow retroreflective tape on the edges of towed equipment especially if they extend beyond the left side of a tractor. If a tractor has mirrors, keep them clean and adjusted for the driver to watch for approaching motorists. When possible, pull completely off the road to let a line of traffic behind pass.
At the same time, non-farm drivers need to be aware of the increasing number of farm vehicles and equipment on the road. It is not a bad idea to leave for your destination a few minutes early just in case you encounter farm equipment. Please do not get in a hurry and try to pass this equipment when it is not safe. People’s lives (your’s, your passengers’, the farmer’s and bystanders) are at risk. Also keep in mind that farm equipment cannot stop on a dime. Please do not pass the equipment then come to an abrupt stop directly in front of them.
Proper equipment management along with using safety precautions around the farm, farm equipment and on the road will lead to a safer fall harvest season for everyone.
For more information on farm safety, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Long working hours can lead to fatigue and stress, making you less alert to potential safety hazards. Take some breaks when operating equipment for an extended period of time. If possible, trade off with other workers for a change of pace.
All workers should be trained and physically capable of operating equipment and understand the safety procedures for it. Take time to talk to workers about safety.
Dress appropriately for the job. Avoid loose clothing, jackets with dangling strings, and sweatshirts that could become entangled in moving equipment.
Entanglement in moving parts, especially Power Take-Offs or other chain and belt drives, is a major fall harvest hazard. Inspect machinery and equipment to be sure shields and guards on moving parts are in place and in good repair. Replace ineffective or missing safety equipment. Before getting off field equipment, turn off the engine and wait for moving parts to completely stop.
It is a good idea to take the ignition key with you so another person does not unexpectedly start equipment while you are performing maintenance or repair. If you are working under any piece of equipment, such as a header unit, always use the jack stand or hydraulic cylinder locks to prevent it from suddenly falling and pinning you under. Be sure all safety locks are operational.
A pinhole-size hydraulic leak can cause severe tissue damage. If you are injected with oil from a hydraulic leak, immediately seek medical assistance. The oil must be surgically removed, and delays can result in serious infections and possible amputations. Always use paper or cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks.
Tractor overturns and run-overs are leading causes of farm deaths. Being thrown off a tractor and run over is the second leading cause of tractor deaths in Kentucky. Equip older model tractors with a rollover protective structure (ROPS). Most tractors built after the late 1960s or early 1970s can be equipped with a ROPS for $600 to $1,200.
Make it a habit to use the seat belt to ensure you remain inside the zone of protection provided by the ROPS or safety cab. The seat belt also will keep you from being thrown off the tractor if you hit an obstacle.
Run-over injuries to extra riders, especially those involving children, who fall off are very tragic. Never allow any extra riders on tractors or equipment.
Keep bystanders away from operating equipment. Also, be aware of people who may have come into the area. Check around equipment before starting or moving it.
Carry a fire extinguisher on all tractors and self-propelled equipment, chiefly combines. Frequently check extinguishers to ensure they are pressurized and in good condition. To prevent fires on combines, be sure equipment is clean and hoses and fuel systems are in good shape and not leaking. Remove debris around engine components.
Check for clearances with overhead power lines when operating or moving tall machines, because contact may result in electrocution. Moving portable augers around overhead power lines is especially hazardous so always lower them first.
Keep slow-moving-vehicle emblems and extremity markings clean and bright to help motorists notice equipment. Replace faded emblems and check headlights, taillights and flashing lights for satisfactory operation.
To alert oncoming drivers, use yellow reflectors or yellow retroreflective tape on the edges of towed equipment especially if they extend beyond the left side of a tractor. If a tractor has mirrors, keep them clean and adjusted for the driver to watch for approaching motorists. When possible, pull completely off the road to let a line of traffic behind pass.
At the same time, non-farm drivers need to be aware of the increasing number of farm vehicles and equipment on the road. It is not a bad idea to leave for your destination a few minutes early just in case you encounter farm equipment. Please do not get in a hurry and try to pass this equipment when it is not safe. People’s lives (your’s, your passengers’, the farmer’s and bystanders) are at risk. Also keep in mind that farm equipment cannot stop on a dime. Please do not pass the equipment then come to an abrupt stop directly in front of them.
Proper equipment management along with using safety precautions around the farm, farm equipment and on the road will lead to a safer fall harvest season for everyone.
For more information on farm safety, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
Bug Proofing Your House for The Fall
Even though we are currently fighting away mosquitos, it time to start thinking about bug proofing your home for the fall. It won’t be long until you may have noticed your home being invaded by an assortment of fall pests, including Asian lady beetles, boxelder bugs, crickets, spiders and black soldier beetle larvae. These creatures typically visit homes that provide easy entry during the fall, often seeking refuge from changing weather.
Pest proofing your home is the most efficient way to keep these critters out. Even though a swatter, broom or vacuum cleaner and trash container will take care of pests that occasionally wander indoors, it’s best to deal with boxelder bugs and lady beetles outside, before they enter your home.
UK Extension Entomologist Dr. Lee Townsend, suggests following these guidelines to help pest proof your home or place of business and some may even help you conserve energy and increase the comfort level this fall and winter:
Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors, paying particular attention to the bottom corners that are a common entry location. Insects and spiders can enter through a gap of one-sixteenth of an inch or less. Get down on the floor and check for light entering under doors; this indicates possible pest entryways.
To close other potential pest entries, apply caulk on the bottom outside edges and sides of door thresholds; fit garage doors with a rubber bottom seal because vinyl doesn’t seal well in the winter; and line the bottom track of sliding glass doors with foam weather stripping ½ to ¾ inch wide to seal any gaps.
Utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding are common entry points for spiders, ants, yellow jackets and rodents. You can use caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool and copper mesh to plug openings around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone or cable television wires.
Apply a good-quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk to cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards and other openings. Before you apply the caulk, clean existing caulk, and remove any that’s peeling to aid adhesion. Be sure to use a good caulking gun. Desirable features are a back-off trigger to stop caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to remove the tip from new caulking tubes, and a nail to puncture the seal within. These guns are available for less than $10.
To reduce the entry of lady beetles, cluster flies and other overwintering pests, repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Keep windows closed when adults are emerging to prevent entry. Repairing screens also will keep out flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges next summer.
Another way to prevent pest entry is to apply an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. To gain the most from this effort, apply long-lasting liquid formulations that contain synthetic pyrethroids. These products are available at most hardware, lawn and garden shops.
If you apply the barrier treatment, use a compressed air or hose-end sprayer to treat the base of all exterior doors, garage, crawl space entrances, foundation vents, utility openings and beneath siding. It’s also useful to treat the outside perimeter of the foundation with a two- to six-foot wide band along the ground and two to three feet up the foundation wall.
If you prefer not to tackle these pest-proofing activities, contact a professional pest control firm to help you out.
For more information, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. The University of Kentucky is an equal opportunity university. Questions concerning compliance with regulations may be directed to the Institutional Equity & Equal Opportunity Office, 13 Main Building, University of Kentucky, Lexington, KY 40506-0032, (859) 257-8927 or at http://www.uky.edu/evpfa/eeo.
Upcoming Ag Events:
Aug 26th 8am Private Pesticide Applicator Certification
Aug 30th Rinse & Return at CPS in Sacramento
Sept 22nd Beef Bash at Princeton Research Station
Pest proofing your home is the most efficient way to keep these critters out. Even though a swatter, broom or vacuum cleaner and trash container will take care of pests that occasionally wander indoors, it’s best to deal with boxelder bugs and lady beetles outside, before they enter your home.
UK Extension Entomologist Dr. Lee Townsend, suggests following these guidelines to help pest proof your home or place of business and some may even help you conserve energy and increase the comfort level this fall and winter:
Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors, paying particular attention to the bottom corners that are a common entry location. Insects and spiders can enter through a gap of one-sixteenth of an inch or less. Get down on the floor and check for light entering under doors; this indicates possible pest entryways.
To close other potential pest entries, apply caulk on the bottom outside edges and sides of door thresholds; fit garage doors with a rubber bottom seal because vinyl doesn’t seal well in the winter; and line the bottom track of sliding glass doors with foam weather stripping ½ to ¾ inch wide to seal any gaps.
Utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding are common entry points for spiders, ants, yellow jackets and rodents. You can use caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool and copper mesh to plug openings around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone or cable television wires.
Apply a good-quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk to cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards and other openings. Before you apply the caulk, clean existing caulk, and remove any that’s peeling to aid adhesion. Be sure to use a good caulking gun. Desirable features are a back-off trigger to stop caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to remove the tip from new caulking tubes, and a nail to puncture the seal within. These guns are available for less than $10.
To reduce the entry of lady beetles, cluster flies and other overwintering pests, repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Keep windows closed when adults are emerging to prevent entry. Repairing screens also will keep out flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges next summer.
Another way to prevent pest entry is to apply an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. To gain the most from this effort, apply long-lasting liquid formulations that contain synthetic pyrethroids. These products are available at most hardware, lawn and garden shops.
If you apply the barrier treatment, use a compressed air or hose-end sprayer to treat the base of all exterior doors, garage, crawl space entrances, foundation vents, utility openings and beneath siding. It’s also useful to treat the outside perimeter of the foundation with a two- to six-foot wide band along the ground and two to three feet up the foundation wall.
If you prefer not to tackle these pest-proofing activities, contact a professional pest control firm to help you out.
For more information, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. The University of Kentucky is committed to a policy of providing opportunities to people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. The University of Kentucky is an equal opportunity university. Questions concerning compliance with regulations may be directed to the Institutional Equity & Equal Opportunity Office, 13 Main Building, University of Kentucky, Lexington, KY 40506-0032, (859) 257-8927 or at http://www.uky.edu/evpfa/eeo.
Upcoming Ag Events:
Aug 26th 8am Private Pesticide Applicator Certification
Aug 30th Rinse & Return at CPS in Sacramento
Sept 22nd Beef Bash at Princeton Research Station
Wednesday, August 17, 2016
Preventing Hay Fires on Your Farm
You can prevent hay bale or barn fires if you bale hay at appropriate moisture levels and monitor the temperature of recently baled hay. However, this summer we have had to fight with moisture levels more than we usually do. Everyone is working tirelessly between rains to cut and bale hay, top tobacco and spray crops. So there is probably a lot of hay that has been put up with slightly higher moisture content that usual.
According to UK Hay Specialist, Tom Keene, hay generally will begin a heating phase within one to two days after baling. During this time, you should monitor hay to make sure it does not reach temperatures that can damage the hay or lead to spontaneous combustion.
It is not unusual for the temperature within a bale of hay to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and may go as high as 130 degrees before beginning to decline. If the temperature peaks below 130 degrees, there may be some loss of quality but no danger of fire. With free air circulation around a bale, both heat and moisture can easily dissipate. A single bale rarely heats enough to catch on fire, but when they are placed close together or stacked with other bales that are also heating, it is much more difficult for the heat to leave the bales. A good practice is to leave bales scattered in the barn or in the field for 3 to 4 weeks before placing them in a stack.
If the bales are wetter than they should be, the temperatures can easily rise above 130 degrees. At 140 to 150 degrees more microbial growth and chemical reactions within the hay cause it to generate heat at an increasingly rapid rate.
If hay temperatures reach 150 degrees, you will need to move bales to allow for better air circulation and you should check the temperature at least two to three times per day. At 180 degrees fire is imminent, and at 200 degrees it is likely to be present. In either case, the fire department should be notified. It is best to wait for them to arrive before removing the hay from the stack in case of a flame up.
Smoke from hay that has been treated with an acid preservative may contain toxic fumes, so keep people away from the smoke and inform the firefighters of the treatment that was applied.
To check the temperature of hay, you can use several types of thermometers. Find one that is durable and easy to use and will measure up to 200 degrees.
One way to use a simple glass thermometer is by attaching a string or thin wire and lowering or pushing it into a probe that has been inserted into the center area of the hay stack. Do not insert them directly into the hay because they break very easily. It is best to use only spirit-filled glass thermometers. That prevents any risk of accidentally contaminating hay with mercury from a broken thermometer.
You can also use electronic thermometers with remote sensors and a digital readout. Avoid LED displays because they are often hard to read in bright light. An LCD is a better choice. If you are also moisture testing your hay, some of the electronic moisture meters also measure temperature.
Long stem thermometers, commonly called compost thermometers, are probably the most rugged and reliable when measuring temperatures in one bale at a time. With these types, the price increases with the dial size and length of the stem. It may be tempting to stick these directly into a hay bale, but the stem can easily bend and destroy the accuracy or operation of the thermometer.
It is best and necessary in most cases to use some kind of hay probe. You can easily make one yourself using steel pipe or electrical conduit. You can also purchase commercial probes or borrow one from the Extension Office.
When you are using a thermometer, measure the wettest hay first. Probe square bales from the side and round bales from the end. You should insert the probe near the center of the bale. In round bales, if the core is loosely formed, probe six to 12 inches away from the center where the hay will be more tightly packed.
In large stacks, it may be difficult to reach the center, but it is important to get at least five to 10 feet down from the top or in from the side. The most critical factor is to reach where the wettest hay is stored. It is best to probe at several locations and at different depths within a stack to locate the warmest spot.
When checking hay for moisture and temperature, always err on the side of caution. If temperatures are in an upward mode, monitor hay until it becomes stabilized under 130 degrees Fahrenheit or until the interior of the bale or the hay stack reaches ambient temperature.
Also, keep in mind that testing your hay for quality is always important and should be done before feeding it to livestock.
For more information on temperature checking and other aspects of hay production contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
According to UK Hay Specialist, Tom Keene, hay generally will begin a heating phase within one to two days after baling. During this time, you should monitor hay to make sure it does not reach temperatures that can damage the hay or lead to spontaneous combustion.
It is not unusual for the temperature within a bale of hay to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and may go as high as 130 degrees before beginning to decline. If the temperature peaks below 130 degrees, there may be some loss of quality but no danger of fire. With free air circulation around a bale, both heat and moisture can easily dissipate. A single bale rarely heats enough to catch on fire, but when they are placed close together or stacked with other bales that are also heating, it is much more difficult for the heat to leave the bales. A good practice is to leave bales scattered in the barn or in the field for 3 to 4 weeks before placing them in a stack.
If the bales are wetter than they should be, the temperatures can easily rise above 130 degrees. At 140 to 150 degrees more microbial growth and chemical reactions within the hay cause it to generate heat at an increasingly rapid rate.
If hay temperatures reach 150 degrees, you will need to move bales to allow for better air circulation and you should check the temperature at least two to three times per day. At 180 degrees fire is imminent, and at 200 degrees it is likely to be present. In either case, the fire department should be notified. It is best to wait for them to arrive before removing the hay from the stack in case of a flame up.
Smoke from hay that has been treated with an acid preservative may contain toxic fumes, so keep people away from the smoke and inform the firefighters of the treatment that was applied.
To check the temperature of hay, you can use several types of thermometers. Find one that is durable and easy to use and will measure up to 200 degrees.
One way to use a simple glass thermometer is by attaching a string or thin wire and lowering or pushing it into a probe that has been inserted into the center area of the hay stack. Do not insert them directly into the hay because they break very easily. It is best to use only spirit-filled glass thermometers. That prevents any risk of accidentally contaminating hay with mercury from a broken thermometer.
You can also use electronic thermometers with remote sensors and a digital readout. Avoid LED displays because they are often hard to read in bright light. An LCD is a better choice. If you are also moisture testing your hay, some of the electronic moisture meters also measure temperature.
Long stem thermometers, commonly called compost thermometers, are probably the most rugged and reliable when measuring temperatures in one bale at a time. With these types, the price increases with the dial size and length of the stem. It may be tempting to stick these directly into a hay bale, but the stem can easily bend and destroy the accuracy or operation of the thermometer.
It is best and necessary in most cases to use some kind of hay probe. You can easily make one yourself using steel pipe or electrical conduit. You can also purchase commercial probes or borrow one from the Extension Office.
When you are using a thermometer, measure the wettest hay first. Probe square bales from the side and round bales from the end. You should insert the probe near the center of the bale. In round bales, if the core is loosely formed, probe six to 12 inches away from the center where the hay will be more tightly packed.
In large stacks, it may be difficult to reach the center, but it is important to get at least five to 10 feet down from the top or in from the side. The most critical factor is to reach where the wettest hay is stored. It is best to probe at several locations and at different depths within a stack to locate the warmest spot.
When checking hay for moisture and temperature, always err on the side of caution. If temperatures are in an upward mode, monitor hay until it becomes stabilized under 130 degrees Fahrenheit or until the interior of the bale or the hay stack reaches ambient temperature.
Also, keep in mind that testing your hay for quality is always important and should be done before feeding it to livestock.
For more information on temperature checking and other aspects of hay production contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Monday, August 8, 2016
Time to Plant Your Fall Garden
With all of the rain that we have received over the past couple of months, many people did not have much of a summer garden. If you fall into that category with me, then you are hoping for much better luck with your fall garden. And if you have not done so already, you need to be finishing up planting your fall garden by the end of this month.
Early August would be the time to make a last planting of bush beans, carrots, kale, collards, bibb lettuce, turnips and cole crops such as kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Late August plantings can include mustard greens, spinach greens, radishes, turnip greens and leaf lettuce.
Before planting, remove any existing debris including crops and weeds to the compost bin and cultivate the soil.
If the previous crop was well fertilized and grew vigorously you may need to add little if any additional fertilizer, otherwise apply about 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 per 100 square feet of planting area.
Remember to keep fall gardens well watered as this tends to be a fairly dry time in Kentucky during an “average” year. A weekly irrigation sufficient to wet the soil to 6 or 8 inches should be adequate. This is more or less equivalent to a weekly one-inch rain.
To learn more about fall gardening options, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Early August would be the time to make a last planting of bush beans, carrots, kale, collards, bibb lettuce, turnips and cole crops such as kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Late August plantings can include mustard greens, spinach greens, radishes, turnip greens and leaf lettuce.
Before planting, remove any existing debris including crops and weeds to the compost bin and cultivate the soil.
If the previous crop was well fertilized and grew vigorously you may need to add little if any additional fertilizer, otherwise apply about 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 per 100 square feet of planting area.
Remember to keep fall gardens well watered as this tends to be a fairly dry time in Kentucky during an “average” year. A weekly irrigation sufficient to wet the soil to 6 or 8 inches should be adequate. This is more or less equivalent to a weekly one-inch rain.
To learn more about fall gardening options, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Forage Quality Key Component to Success in Livestock Production
Forage quality often receives far less attention that it deserves. It is defined in various ways but is often difficult to understand. Forage Quality represents a simple concept, yet encompasses much complexity.
Good forage quality is essential for high rates of gain, ample milk production, efficient reproduction, and adequate profits. However, forage quality varies greatly among and within forage crops, and nutritional needs vary among and within animal species and classes. Producing suitable quality forage for a given situation requires knowing the factors that affect forage quality, then exercising management accordingly.
According to a UK Extension publication Understanding Forage Quality, factors that influence forage quality include the following:
Palatability Will the animals eat the forage? Animals select one forage over another based on smell, feel, and taste. Palatability may therefore be influenced by texture, leafiness, fertilization, dung or urine patches, moisture content, pest infestation, or compounds that cause a forage to taste sweet, sour, or salty. High-quality forages are generally highly palatable.
Intake How much will they eat? Animals must consume adequate quantities of forage to perform well. Typically, the higher the palatability and forage quality, the higher the intake.
Digestibility How much of the forage will be digested? Digestibility (the extent to which forage is absorbed as it passes through an animal’s digestive tract) varies greatly. Immature, leafy plant tissues may be 80 to 90% digested, while less than 50% of mature, stemmy material is digested.
Nutrient content Once digested, will the forage provide an adequate level of nutrients? Living forage plants usually contain 70 to 90% water. To standardize analyses, forage yield and nutrient content are usually expressed on a dry matter (DM) basis. Forage dry matter can be divided into two main categories: (1) cell contents (the non-structural parts of the plant tissue such as protein, sugar, and starch); and (2) structural components of the cell wall (cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin).
Anti-quality factors Various compounds may be present in forage that can lower animal performance, cause sickness, or even result in death. Such compounds include tannins, nitrates, alkaloids, cyanoglycosides, estrogens, and mycotoxins. The presence and/or severity of these elements depend on the plant species present (including weeds), time of year, environmental conditions, and animal sensitivity. High-quality forages must not contain harmful levels of anti-quality components.
Animal performance is the ultimate test of forage quality, especially when forages are fed alone and free choice. Forage quality encompasses “nutritive value” (the potential for supplying nutrients, i.e., digestibility and nutrient content), how much animals will consume, and any anti-quality factors present. Animal performance can be influenced by any of several factors associated with either the plants or the animals. Failure to give proper consideration to any of these factors may reduce an animal’s performance level, which in turn reduces potential income.
Analyzing forages for nutrient content can be used to determine whether quality is adequate and to guide proper ration supplementation. In order to better assist producers with quality, we are holding a hay testing day at the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office on Wednesday, August 10th. The Kentucky Department of Agriculture will be here to test hay samples during office hours free of charge. This is a great opportunity to have your hay samples tested and know the nutrient value of it.
Also, on August 9th there will be a Beef Field Day at Cody Robertson’s Farm beginning at 9am and concluding with lunch. Topics that will be covered include reproductive management, cattle handling, cattle facilities and updates on medication and application equipment.
For more information on forage quality or about the upcoming Beef Field Day, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Upcoming Ag Programs
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
Good forage quality is essential for high rates of gain, ample milk production, efficient reproduction, and adequate profits. However, forage quality varies greatly among and within forage crops, and nutritional needs vary among and within animal species and classes. Producing suitable quality forage for a given situation requires knowing the factors that affect forage quality, then exercising management accordingly.
According to a UK Extension publication Understanding Forage Quality, factors that influence forage quality include the following:
Palatability Will the animals eat the forage? Animals select one forage over another based on smell, feel, and taste. Palatability may therefore be influenced by texture, leafiness, fertilization, dung or urine patches, moisture content, pest infestation, or compounds that cause a forage to taste sweet, sour, or salty. High-quality forages are generally highly palatable.
Intake How much will they eat? Animals must consume adequate quantities of forage to perform well. Typically, the higher the palatability and forage quality, the higher the intake.
Digestibility How much of the forage will be digested? Digestibility (the extent to which forage is absorbed as it passes through an animal’s digestive tract) varies greatly. Immature, leafy plant tissues may be 80 to 90% digested, while less than 50% of mature, stemmy material is digested.
Nutrient content Once digested, will the forage provide an adequate level of nutrients? Living forage plants usually contain 70 to 90% water. To standardize analyses, forage yield and nutrient content are usually expressed on a dry matter (DM) basis. Forage dry matter can be divided into two main categories: (1) cell contents (the non-structural parts of the plant tissue such as protein, sugar, and starch); and (2) structural components of the cell wall (cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin).
Anti-quality factors Various compounds may be present in forage that can lower animal performance, cause sickness, or even result in death. Such compounds include tannins, nitrates, alkaloids, cyanoglycosides, estrogens, and mycotoxins. The presence and/or severity of these elements depend on the plant species present (including weeds), time of year, environmental conditions, and animal sensitivity. High-quality forages must not contain harmful levels of anti-quality components.
Animal performance is the ultimate test of forage quality, especially when forages are fed alone and free choice. Forage quality encompasses “nutritive value” (the potential for supplying nutrients, i.e., digestibility and nutrient content), how much animals will consume, and any anti-quality factors present. Animal performance can be influenced by any of several factors associated with either the plants or the animals. Failure to give proper consideration to any of these factors may reduce an animal’s performance level, which in turn reduces potential income.
Analyzing forages for nutrient content can be used to determine whether quality is adequate and to guide proper ration supplementation. In order to better assist producers with quality, we are holding a hay testing day at the McLean County Cooperative Extension Office on Wednesday, August 10th. The Kentucky Department of Agriculture will be here to test hay samples during office hours free of charge. This is a great opportunity to have your hay samples tested and know the nutrient value of it.
Also, on August 9th there will be a Beef Field Day at Cody Robertson’s Farm beginning at 9am and concluding with lunch. Topics that will be covered include reproductive management, cattle handling, cattle facilities and updates on medication and application equipment.
For more information on forage quality or about the upcoming Beef Field Day, contact the McLean County Cooperative Extension Service at (270)273-3690. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.
Upcoming Ag Programs
August 4th Forestry Program, Noon
August 9th McLean Co. Beef Field Day, 9am at Cody Robertson’s Farm
August 10th Hay Testing Blitz
August 11th UK Hemp Field Day
August 11th CPH Sale
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